SHNITPWR 24V DC Power Supply 24 Volt 5A 120W Power Adapter 100V~240V AC to DC Converter Transformer 5.5×2.5mm Plug for 5050 3528 LED Strip Light 3D Printer LED Driver CCTV Security System LCD Monito
Input Voltage | AC 100V~240V 50/60Hz |
Output Voltage | DC 24V ( constant voltage ) |
Output Current/Wattage | Max 5A / 120W |
DC connector | 5.5mm x 2.5mm (inside”+”, outside”-“) |
Safety | CE / RoHS / FCC / CCC |
Package List | 1x 24V 5A power adapter; 1x AC power cord; 1x DC female connector |
Is this DC 24V 5A power supply (PS) compatible with your device?
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1. Check VoltagePlease find the spec label of your device and check the working voltage. It should be 24V DC, not be AC 24V or lower/higher than 24V DC. Otherwise, your device will not work or be damaged. | 2. Check CurrentCheck the max current your device will draw. It should be equal to or less than 5A,such as 1A,2A,3A,5A. Otherwise, your device won’t work well and the power supply will be damaged very soon. | 3. Check PortCheck the power input port of your device. Its outer diameter should be 5.5mm; inner core diameter should be 2.5mm or 2.1mm. Inner core polarity should be”+”, exterior polarity should be” – “. | 4. Refer to original PSIf you have an original power supply for reference, their output voltage, plug size, polarity should be the same .If our PS’s current is equal to or higher than original one’s, then our PS will work with your device. |
Dimensions: | 14 x 6 x 4 cm; 540 Grams |
Manufacture: | SHNITPWR |
Origin: | China |
Lost my G27 power adapter, after some research purchased this and it has worked flawlessly for months.
I use these power bricks quite a lot. They’re incredibly useful for DIY projects with the voltage and current output, I normally take the output of the power brick and then use a small PSU board to convert down to the voltage I need.
There’s plenty of “oomph” with the output on these, so they’re ideal for driving a variety of devices.
THIS ELECTRIC CURRENT CONVERTER IS GREAT, I HAVE BOUGHT 3 NOW, AND IS A VERY ECCONOMIC WAY TO TRANSFORM THE AC TO DC.
Good quality product with plenty of value for money powe
Works well but was not suitable for my requirements caused interference on the fm radio.
ITEM RETURNED.
Exactly what my sons led lights needed as the one that cane was too low wattage and became hot!
Have bought 2 of these for 5 Bluetooth5 digital 50+50W Amplifiers, they allow them to drive my Rogers Studio 1 monitor speakers to an adequate level even though they are 8ohms, which means they, can only deliver 25-30W to them, but what quality of sound.
I can also verify they can do an excellent job with Rogers LS35A’s, which are in my case the 11ohm variety, and I also use a pair of Tannoy Berkely’s [8ohm], Oh for the days when these were at the top of the league for HI-FI.
They still are for me at the top of the SOUND league, back to these power supplies, just don’t think of driving any of the speakers I have mentioned, with 3amp or less supplies.
Quick delivery. Well packaged. Power supply working correctly. The kettle plug cable from power supply to UK plug is quite short.
It’s a solid compact PSU. I tested with my AVO first and it’s exactly 24.0V.
Comes with a UK mains lead, the PSU and a green adapter which converts the round plug end to a small terminal with +/- you could push small wires into and screw down.
I bought a new electric piano costing over 2000 and the PSU it came with was dead. Such a fine beast let down by something that probably cost 10. The piano manufacturers website said “WARNING! Only use our power supplies!” but getting a replacement would probably take weeks via customer services as they didn’t offer their PSU for sale via the website. My old piano stopped working 2 years ago so I’ve been saving since and it took nearly 2 weeks to arrive once ordered. I was impatient for piano!
The truth is 24v is 24v, 5A is 5A and every electron in the Universe is identical else physics and the Universe would crumble. There is no magic branded electricity. But there can be differences in the quality of PSU, it’s range of protection features, its efficiency, but more importantly its polarity. This one is “center positive” meaning the inside is +24v and the outside is ground/earth. There’s a small icon on the back showing something like a Pacman being prodded; (-)—-(—-(+) which means negative is on the outside of the pin and positive on the inside.
As for quality clearly my piano one was poor! No harm using something that’s actually better. And on the back of my piano one it said “Input 240V 2.2A Output 24V 5A”. This SHNITPWR has “Input 240V 1.5A” meaning it uses less amps to give the same output – in other words this one I’m reviewing is more efficient and will run cooler.
People get anxious plugging “other brand” PSU into their expensive pride and joys when the manufacturer has clearly told them not to, it will invalidate the warranty, yada yada, and charge you 3x the price for something that is not actually designed/made by them but a generic import with their brand logo label slapped on it. I studied electrical stuff at college and knew there is no “special electricity” and if anything did go wrong I had the original faulty PSU which I could blame, or the piano was the fault in the first place.
More than happy with this PSU. Nothing rattles, it’s solid, the output is steady and accurate and has plenty of protection to keep my piano safe.