ANYCUBIC Vyper 3D Printer, FDM Printer Auto Leveling Upgrade
ANYCUBIC Vyper 3D Printer, FDM Printer Auto Leveling Upgrade Fast Integrated Structure Design with Silent Mainboard, Removable Magnetic Platform, Printing Size 245mm × 245mm× 260mm
Just for Your Better Using Experience
- Belt adjustment module
The module can quickly adjust the tension of the X/Y axis belt, which brings you easier and more convenient operation
- Integrated tool box
The built-in design makes it easier for tool storage and usage
- Quick disassembly rack
The rack can be quickly assembled, disassembled and moved, which is convenient and practical
 |  |  |  |  |  | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Printing Technology | FDM | FDM | FDM | FDM | FDM | N/A |
| Heated Build Plate | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | N/A |
| Build Volume | 15.7” x 15.7” x 17.7” | 11.8” x 11.8” x 13.8” | 8.7” x 8.7” x 9.84” | 11.8” × 11.8” × 12” | 8.27” x 8.27” x 8.07” | N/A |
| Materiali | PLA, TPU, ABS, HIPS, PETG, Legno pla | PLA, TPU, ABS, HIPS, PETG, Legno pla | PLA, TPU, ABS, HIPS, PETG, Legno pla | PLA, TPU, ABS, HIPS, PETG, Legno pla | PLA, TPU, ABS, HIPS, PETG, Legno pla | N/A |
| Leveling Type | Auto Leveling | Auto Leveling | Auto Leveling | Manual | Manual | N/A |
| Connectivity | SD Card & USB cable | SD Card & USB cable | SD Card & USB cable | SD Card & USB cable | SD Card & USB cable | N/A |
| Layer Resolution | 0.05-0.3mm | 0.05-0.3mm | 0.05-0.3mm | 0.05-0.3mm | 0.05-0.3mm | N/A |
| Max Heatbed Temp | 90 °C | 100 °C | 110°C | 90°C | 110°C | N/A |
| Max Extruder Temp | 260°C | 260°C | 260°C | 250°C | 260°C | N/A |
| Printing Speed | ＜180mm/s (recommended 80-100mm/s) | ＜180mm/s (Recommended 80-100mm/s | ＜180mm/s (Recommended 50-80mm/s | 20-100mm/s(Recommended 60) | 20-100mm/s(Recommended 60) | N/A |
| Dimensions: | 50.8 x 45.7 x 51.6 cm; 12.4 Kilograms |
| Model: | VYPER |
| Manufacture: | ANYCUBIC |
| Dimensions: | 50.8 x 45.7 x 51.6 cm; 12.4 Kilograms |
| Origin: | China |
Great printer , autolevelling as good as any I have come across before
Had an issue with the printhead that I didn’t catch in time to save it from being damaged
Easy to use
Very easy to set up
Only had it fail a few times but that was user error, good learning experience and a very good starter printer!
Where do you start?
Auto levelling a gimmick, it doesn’t work, and there is no manual override, the Z Offset leaves it to guesswork.
Temperature sensors are about 15deg out
Homing doesn’t home.
Every print is different, settings, temp etc, I spend more time tinkering with this printer than any others I have.
Since purchase in October I’ve had to replace two hot ends and 3 nozzles.
Do not waste your money
Got it as a birthday gift from someone who purchased on Amazon (so I’m reviewing on here.)
Great first printer. My first print was a fail- z-offset was off by a bit. Second print was a fail- didn’t know why. I figured out why, though- adhesion to the PEI plate wasn’t great for me.
Thus, I’m using that “glue stick” method that people use. The removable PEI plate makes it very easy to clean up- just slather the base with Pritt, print it, then remove the PEI plate + was it in the sink/take it to the shower with you.
Another important thing to note with this- I recommend an enclosure. I haven’t needed to use Pritt since setting up an enclosure- I think ambient airflow + low Brit weather makes for bad printing.
Oh, and get the z-offset on-point, and redo it every level cycle. On one cycle, I found z-offset to be -0.92. On another, post-levelling, -0.96. 0.04 makes a difference- the print failed without redoing the offset with levelling.
Anyway, great printer, and a great introduction to getting my own parts done rather than buying them from abroad.
Bin sehr zufrieden mit dem Drucker ist mein 3. muss ihn nochmals richtig einstellen aber im groen und ganzen sehr zufriede
Nach nur 5 Min einschalten und los , seitdem habe ich den im Dauereinsatzt, Top Ge
For a first foray in the 3d printing world was very comfortable. The printer arrived well packed and with a host of tools, a pare nozzle ( -1 star as none of the tool provided fit the nozzle diameter)
It took me a few print to realize the Z offset was not correct and tune it. Print were not adhering on the plate or the layers were clearly not right. Once tweaked, the print are super nice and looking good with ease
The manual and assembly guide are helpful, with good pictures without being overly verbose
Very good piece of kit and well supported by thrid party slicer/tools, not having a proprietary feel to it which is a big plus and allow for tweaks/repairs
Ich wollte einen 3D-Drucker mit Autolevelling und per Zufall fand ich den Vyper mit einem Rabatt. Bisher bin ich sehr zufrieden mit allen PLA und PETG drucken. Der Drucker soll auch ABS drucken knnen. Das bezweifele ich inzwischen: Bei dem Versuch Temperaturtrme zur Optimierung der Drucktemperatur zu drucken, stieg der Drucker regelmig aus, wenn 250C gefordert waren. Mein grter Kritikpunkt an den Anycubic Druckern ist, dass es keine vernnftigen Produktdatenbltter gibt.
Just wanted to put this in here so might help someone else. Not long after I wrote the review below I started suffering multiple issues. The replacement print head they sent me broke, thus needing another, that’s 3 printheads in as many months including the original. The bed levelling & z-offset would randomly change causing the nozzle to crash onto the bed. I had constant blockage thus needing to take things apart to fix. More recently I started getting errors on screen & it suddenly start showing everthing in Chinese! Only way to fix was to reflash the firmware. Anycubic support are OK when they answer, usually next working day, but spares take 3 weeks from China to UK. I also had multiple printing problems with unstable temp running up & down. I contatcted Amazon about the issues & they offered me to return the machine for a refund, many thanks Amazon, saved me some headaches.
Sorry if this review is rather long, but hoefully you’ll find it worth it.
It took me a while to choose this printer. I am brand new to 3D printing & so the choice is quite overwhelming, but having been given Amazon vouchers for Xmas & with a determination to try it out, I went ahead & plumped for the Anycubic Kobra Neo. The Neo seems like a good starting place with it’s automatic levelling & all the niceties that a newbie would want. Just as some background, I am quite tech savvy having run my own computer build & repair service in the past. Anyway, the delivery came, along with a couple of different colour spools of PLA & I set to work.
The unit is very well presented & packaged. I would suggest (as do Anycubic) that you unpack everything first & lay it out for ease of locating items. I would say the most awkward part is affixing the frame to the base, & although it’s only 4 screws it’s just holding it in place while you get an initial bite on the screws, after that, take your time & enjoy it. Everything you need is provided & I didn’t need any extra tools.
Once I had it all together I did the tests, like self levelling & fed in the test PLA media. Once all that was done I poped the included SD card in & told it to print the owl test print. That’s where things went downhill! It did not stick to the base & got picked up with the print head & turned into a nice little mess. I realised at this point that I had made a crucial error, I had not done the paper test!! What’s a paper test? Good point as altough you hear the term everywhere it’s hard to get exact instructions on how to do it. In the end I found a helpful video on Youtube that showed me exactly what I was doing wrong & it was on the same model. Sadly, I cannot post that link here as I believe it’s against Amazons TOS. If you search youtube for “setting z-offset on anycubic kobra neo” by Chris Jacoby you should find it & it’s much easier to see the process than me trying to explain it.
Now that was all done, I tried to print again. Success it seemed, the print startted nicely & stuck well (or so i thought) I decided as this would take a while to go & get a cuppa, it must have been around the moment I left the room that the problem started. The print head picked the print up from the base again & carried it on its merry way to print the model, this quickly turned into a big mess & when I came back with my cuppa I have to admit to using a few choice phrases. I cleaned everything up (again) & set to trying, while I was here to see what went wrong, but no matter what I tried I could not get the media to feed. After a while I gave up & contacted Anycubic & told them what had happened & credit where credit is due the next day they sent a reply & told me they will send a brand new printhead FOC. Wow a company with good CS. I have since learnt though that you can buy (from Amazon of course) a cleaning kit of 0.4mm stainless steel needles to clean the nozzle with, trust me, buy them. They are only a couple of quid & well worth it, also, while youre at it get some canned air & alcohol wipes, these will make the world of difference.
Anyway after getting everything working again, oddly enough with a different media by eSun, the machine did not like the test media, I got things going again. I was still having issues with getting the print to stick to the bed. Apparently this is a big & very common issue & while there are various fixes, such as mixing up a PVA glue & water mixture to put on the bed, I found all of them to be ineffectual. There is a specific glue for the job, which I have since ordered from Amazon. Actually, there are a number of glues but I plumped for a Faeel 3D printer glue stick, which has some great reviews.
Despite the issues I have greatly enjoyed my learning journey, so if like me you like messing around, learning new things & experimenting, you will love this machine. It seems highly adaptable & also you can buy spare parts from Anycubic, so if you break something you haven’t wasted 230 quid, just the price of the part, which seems pretty reasonable to me.
Hopefully by reading my story, if you made it this far, I have saved you some issues. I look forward to many experiments with future prints. I have attached a video of the machine in action, so you can hear noise levels etc. This video was taken just before the major foul up, so keep an eye on it! The machine is far from silent as it has a couple of cooling fans to keep the electronics etc cool while heating the nozzle to a potential 230 degrees & the hot bed to a potential 100 degrees, so be careful!!
I heartily recommend this unit to any budding experimenters, fiddlers & those wanting to learn. If you are looking for an out of the box plug it in & print, then go elsewhere & pay significantly more. I also have to credit Anycubic for great CS who even apologised for the time difference as they are in China. Happy printing!
Habe schon einige Drucker, auch von Anycubic, wollte ich den Vyper mal testen. Der Aufbau ist einfach und fr jeden machbar und auch der erste Druck war in Ordnung. Da bei dem Drucker nichts eingestellt werden mu, da dieser ein automatisches Leveling besitzt, ist der gut fr Anfnger. Allerdings sind die Lfter doch nervig laut, daher habe ich meinen schon mit Nocuta Lfter ausgestattet.
Der Drucker ist super, auch ohne groe Vorkenntnisse habe ich sofort gute Druckergebnisse erzielt. Einfach super.
Excelent printer prints faster than my ender 3 the auto bed level is great although I have to set the z offset to 1.8 to get a nice smooth print. It’s also very quite and only takes about 20 minutes to assemble. Do have the odd bed addison problem mostly fixed with some hair spray but the print head can catch the top of large prints and pull the print off the bed. Printed the skyrim steel dagge
hought id try something other than creality for a change and to be honest this printer is great, it printed straight out the box with no issues what so ever ,checked everything was tight,auto leveled set z offset to 1.92 and it printed flawlessly
This is my first 3d printer and it has been an enjoyable experience so far. My only issue was with my SD card, it needs to be 32gb or less and FAT32 formatted. Otherwise the autoleveling worked perfect, it extrudes properly without any adjustment to feed tension, and my first two prints came out nicely. Not much at 40 minutes and 15 minutes, but I don’t plan to make anything huge yet.
My wife makes polymer clay items and had been buying cookie cutters (the pink boot and many others). I’ve started helping her and wanted to make our own cutters. So far this printer seems perfectly suited to the task.
Das ist mittlerweile mein dritter 3D Drucker.
Angefangen hatte ich mal mit einem Anet A8 Selbstbausatz. Dieser war fr damalige Verhltnisse schon sehr gut.
Danach habe ich mir den Anycubic Mega gegnnt.
Dieser ist auch noch im Einsatz nur macht mir die Druckplatte mittlerweile an ein paar stellen Probleme.
Jetzt aber zu dem Viper.
Dieser hat nochmal eine grere Druckflche als meine beiden Vorgnger. Dadurch kann ich fast die doppelte Menge an Bauteilen auf einmal anfertigen.
Was ich absondert nicht mehr vermissen mchte ist die Autoleveling funktion. Diese erspart einem enorm viel Zeit und Nerven beim einstellen.
Einfach auf Autolevel drcken und das Gert fhrt 16 voreingestellte Punkte des Druckbetts ab. Dadurch ermittelt der Drucker den optimalen Abstand fr die erste Schicht. Kein nerviges Stellrdchen mehr schrauben und mit Papier den Abstand kontrollieren.
Durch die rauhe Oberflche der Druckplatte ist auch die Haftung top!
Einziges Manko was mir bis jetzt aufgefallen ist ist der Filamentsensor. Dieser ist mittlerweile zwar am Gert befestigt und hngt nicht mehr lose ber eine Magnetkugel am Gehuse, aber wenn das Filament nicht ber den original Spulenhalter zugegeben wird wackelt der sehr stark.
Da ich mein Filament in einer Trocknungsbox lagere und direkt von dort aus zugebe muss ich mir noch eine Versteifung fr den Halter bauen. Ich mchte nicht das dieser irgendwann wegen zu hoher Belastung abbricht.
Wenn das aber das einzige Bauteil seien wird das ich noch fr das Gert drucken muss ist alles in Ordnung.
Damals beim Anet musste man ja nach Zusammenbau fast den halben Drucker noch mit extra gedruckten Teilen versehen.
Auch die Werkzeugschublade ist ein nettes Gimmick, jetzt fliegt das Ganze Zubehr nicht mehr so in der Gegend rum sondern ist immer griffbereit an seinem Platz verstaut.
Ich kann diesen Drucker jedem Neuling im 3D Bereich ohne Vorbehalte empfehlen.
Fr den Zusammenbau hab ich nur ca 30min bentigt inkl. Autoleveling.
Dopo pi di un mese posso esprimere una opinione… Facile da montare, corredata di tutto l’essenziale. Silenziosa (l’unica cosa che si sente appena la ventola di raffreddamento se lasciata a massima potenza. Stampe? Privato settaggi per stanotte pi fini e pi grossolane, pi lente e p5oi veloci, risultati sempre ottimi.
Pecche, perch comunque qualche la c’: il computer interno accetta solo file gcode, gli altri formati devono essere convertiti con il software “cura”. Cura prevedere anche la creazione dei supporti in maniera automatica (con tanti settaggi da fare…): funzione preferibile, anche perch rende a creare “troppo” supporto. Se poi ci fosse un programma di progettazione “suo” (che comunque accetta anche i prodotti creati con il 3d builder di Microsoft)…
This is my second 3D printer (first was a Tevo Tornado). I spent over a year fine tuning, modifying and upgrading my Tevo and it still does not print as nicely as this Vyper. Setup was a breeze. It is VERY quiet when running. Auto bed leveling is a must have feature. If you are looking for a 3D printer that creates great prints without hours and hours of tinkering, this Vyper is the one to buy.
Ever since I’ve got this printer, I’ve been starting out small to so call “break in” the printer. But it’s never been easier to set this up, from the auto leveling to assembly of the printer, it’s been great. Been learning a lot on how to dial in settings to get the most optimal prints with the quality on high with minimal waste, and it’s been awesome.
Absolutely the best printer for under $500 especially if you get it at the $343 sale price.
Assembly was easy, loading and unloading filament was easy. What I will say is if you run into problems, it’s most likely your filaments. Some work flawlessly without adjusting your settings, but it’s fun calibrating too and not overly difficult.
Ohne Probleme lsst sich der sehr gut verpackte Drucker auspacken und zusammenbauen.
Zwei Sachen stren mich:
1. Der Halter fr das Filament ist fr 1 kg Rollen etwas schwach, verbiegt sich unter dem Gewicht
2. Die Kabelfhrung berhrt den Drucktisch am hinteren Ende, da muss man was machen. um die Kabel zu schtzen.
Die Vermessung des Drucktischs luft zufriedenstellen, der Druck ist gut, die Haftung auf dem Tisch ist ausreichend. Kleine Teile lassen sich gut lsen, wenn man die magnetische Platte abnimmt und leicht verbiegt. Grere Teile lsen sich schon durch das Erkalten des Drucktischs.
Ich bin zufrieden.
Prints stick really well without warping and no need for any adhesion.
Just plug it in and start printing, the printer come 80% assemble and calibrate. Just tighten 7 screw, and plug some cable in and you are ready to print. The only problem I have is the printer not reading my micro sd card, so I have to use the one included by the manufacturer.
This new the 3D printers got more technologies built in it so easy puttogether 4/8 gig SD card that’s great it it allows you to print wider and big object and so easy too use love it with built-in bed larvae and all so built in light so u can keep an eye on your 3D Printer. u just can’t go wrong just go for it and make sure you ask for 2 or 3 years Guarantee because u only get 1 year warranty Good Luck
Das Kurz-Fazit zuerst:
Der Anycubic Vyper vollbringt zwar keine Wunder und ist auch nicht geruschlos, aber er ist solide gebaut (zwei Z-Gewindestangen), die Verarbeitung ist sehr gut und man erhlt mit dem Vyper auch einen gewissen Komfort (vollautomatisches Leveln, Touch-Display, in’s Gehuse integrierte Toolbox, Hotend-LED-Beleuchtung, beidseitig nutzbares Federstahlblech als Druckoberflche).
Die Druckergebnisse knnen sich vom ersten Druck an sehen lassen. Fr 3D-Druck-Einsteiger ist der Vyper daher bestens geeignet, denke ich. Fr so manchen “alte Hasen” knnte der Vyper vielleicht zu fertig bzw. zu festgelegt sein. Zumindest war das mein Eindruck, als ich den Anycubic Vyper die ersten Male benutzt habe.
Dabei kann man auch am Vyper noch so einiges ber das Display anpassen, denn es gibt viele Anzeigefelder, die wider Erwarten noch bearbeitet werden knnen. Das wird allerdings erst beim intuitiven Ausprobieren des Displays ersichtlich.
Trotz einiger Kritikpunkte (siehe ausfhrliches Fazit weiter unten) gibt es von mir fr den Anycubic Vyper volle 5 Sterne, denn hier bekommt man fr sein Geld einen guten 3D-Drucker, an dem man auch lange Freude haben drfte. Wer sich fr diesen 3D-Drucker entscheidet, sollte allerdings Englisch-Kenntnisse oder ein bersetzungsprogramm zur Verfgung haben.
Hier nun alles im Detail:
1. Ausstattung:
– vollautomatisches Leveln auf Tastendruck
– Touch-Display (Men in Englisch und Chinesisch whlbar)
– zwei Z-Gewindestangen
– Hotend-LED-Beleuchtung
– Toolbox (in das Gehuse integriert)
– Federstahlblech als Druckoberflche, beidseitig nutzbar (strukturiert + glatt), sehr gut haftend
2. Lieferumfang:
– 3D-Drucker mit einem bereits aufliegenden Federstahlblech (Rahmen mu angeschraubt werden)
– Touch-Display (mu angeschraubt werden)
– Filamentrollenhalter (mu angesteckt werden)
– SD-Card (Standard-Gre) mit Bedienunganleitung, USB-Treiber (CH341), Slicer-Software (Cura 4.2.1 fr Mac Darwin und fr Windows 64 Bit), Testdatei (owl.gcode + owl.stl) und Druckprofile fr PLA, TPU, ABS
– SD-Card-Lesegert
– USB-Kabel (1,5 m lang, mit Entstrkondensator)
– Werkzeug (bereits in der Toolbox untergebracht): 1 winziger Drahtschneider, 4 kleine Innensechskant-Schlssel, 2 Maulschlssel, 1 Plastik-Schaber und 1 Reinigungsnadel
– 1 Ersatz-Dse (0.4 mm Volcano-Dse)
– 10 m PLA (wei)
– Aufbauanleitung (Englisch und Chinesisch)
3. Aufbau:
Der Aufbau des Vyper geht recht schnell und auch relativ einfach. Bei der Montage des Rahmens mssen die Schrauben allerdings von unten her eingeschraubt werden.
Die anzuschlieenden Kabel knnen nicht aus Versehen vertauscht werden, weil entweder die Lnge des Kabels und/oder der Stecker dafr sorgt, da das jeweilige Kabel nicht falsch angeschlossen werden kann.
Wenn der Vyper fertig aufgebaut ist, mssen noch die 4 dicken weien Kabelbinder, die als Transportsicherungen dienen, entfernt werden (3 x oben am Rahmen und 1x unter dem Heizbett).
Es ist ratsam, abschlieend alle Schrauben am 3D-Drucker auf festen Sitz zu berprfen, denn durch den Transport knnte sich hier und da eine Schraube gelockert haben. Bitte aber daran denken: Nach fest kommt ab.
Zum Schlu noch ein prfender Blick auf die Rckseite, ob auch wirklich 230 V eingestellt sind und das Stromkabel ordentlich im 3D-Drucker steckt, dann kann es losgehen mit dem vollautomatischen Leveln.
4. Leveln:
Bevor der Level-Vorgang startet, mu zuerst ein Metall-Werkzeug an die Dse gehalten werden. Damit wird berprft, ob der Sensor funktioniert. Dann bewegt sich das Hotend zum Home-Punkt vorne links und tastet anschlieend ganz automatisch die 16 Level-Punkte nacheinander ab.
Das Leveln dauert dann einige Minuten. Dabei kann es sein, da auf dem Federstahlblech ein paar weie Tpfelchen zu sehen sind. Das ist Filament, das sich von der Qualittskontrolle noch in der Dse befand.
Das vollautomatische Leveln mu brigens nicht vor jedem Druck, sondern nur von Zeit zu Zeit gemacht werden. Nach dem Level-Vorgang hat die Dse im Normalfall den richtigen Abstand zum Heizbett. Sollte das nicht der Fall sein, kann man den Abstand ber das Touch-Display nachjustieren.
Das Piepsen des Displays bei jedem Tastendruck kann dauerhaft ausgeschaltet werden. Diese Einstellung bleibt auch bei Trennung vom Stromnetz gespeichert.
4. Test-Drucken von SD-Card:
Fr den Testdruck befindet sich auf der mitgelieferten SD-Card eine Testdatei namens “owl.gcode”. Da sich diese Datei in einem Ordner befindet, mu man sie erst am PC aus dem Ordner herauskopieren – am besten gleich auf eine neue SD-Card (ohne Ordner).
Nach dem Laden des Filaments kann der erste Druck endlich losgehen. Zu diesem Zweck habe ich fr die “owl.gcode”-Datei ein gleichnamiges dunkelbraunes Filament verwendet, das im brigen gar nicht so schlecht ist, wie immer mal wieder gern behauptet wird. Zumindest ist die Rolle PLA in Dunkelbraun, die ich mir vor einiger Zeit mal als B-Ware geordert hatte, ganz okay fr den Preis.
Allerdings sind die 200 C Dsen-Temperatur, die die .gcode-Datei von Anycubic vorgibt, hier ein bichen zu viel des Guten, was man dann auch am Druckergebnis sieht. 190 C htten fr dieses Filament vllig gereicht.
Mit dem beiliegenden PLA von Anycubic (10 m in Wei) wre das Druckergebnis sicherlich eine richtige Augenweide geworden. Ich wollte die Eule aber lieber in Braun haben und sie ist ja trotzdem ganz gut geworden – so vllig out-of-the-box gedruckt und trotz der fr dieses PLA eigentlich zu hohen Temperatur.
5. Software:
Auf der mitgelieferten SD-Card sind neben der Slicer-Software Cura 4.2.1 fr Mac und fr Windows (64 Bit) auch Druckprofile fr PLA, TPU und ABS zu finden, die man in Cura importieren kann. Die Druckprofile knnen in Cura dupliziert und individuell angepat werden. Wie das Einrichten des 3D-Druckers in Cura gemacht wird, erklrt Anycubic detailliert und mit Screenshots versehen in der (englischsprachigen) Bedienungsanleitung, die sich auf der SD-Card befindet.
Die Cura-Version 4.2.1 ist zwar eine ltere Version. Nach meinen Erfahrungen (auch mit anderen 3D-Druckern) luft diese Version aber stabil und problemlos. 3D-Druck-Einsteigern empfehle ich daher, erst einmal die mitgelieferte Cura-Version zu nutzen. Auf neuere Versionen oder andere Slicer-Software kann man spter immer noch umsteigen.
Ausfhrlicheres Fazit:
Der Anycubic Vyper punktet bei mir mit dem vollautomatischen Leveln ganz erheblich. Auch die Hotend-LED-Beleuchtung, die in’s Gehuse integrierte Toolbox und das Federstahlblech als Druckoberflche erleichtern das 3D-Druck-Werkeln ungemein.
Gut finde ich auch, da die 3D-Drucker von Anycubic – so auch der Vyper – nach Fertigstellung des Druckobjektes das Heizbett nach vorn fahren und dann einen Piepton von sich geben. Beides ist ntzlich und wird nicht von jedem 3D-Drucker so gemacht.
In das Hotend ist eine weie LED integriert, die das Druckobjekt beleuchtet. Wenn man ber SD-Card druckt, schaltet sich die LED automatisch ein, sobald der Druck beginnt. Beim Drucken ber USB-Kabel mu die LED manuell eingeschaltet werden. Bei Bedarf kann die LED auch mitten im Drucken aus- und wieder eingeschaltet werden. Die letzte Einstellung bleibt aber nicht dauerhaft gespeichert.
Eine Hotend-Socke ist leider nicht im Lieferumfang enthalten. Schade finde ich auerdem, da die Hersteller von 3D-Druckern generell meist an den Lftern sparen. Auch wenn sich die Geruschkulisse beim Vyper im Vergleich zu anderen 3D-Druckern sehr in Grenzen hlt (geschtzte 25 – 30 dbA), knnte er durchaus noch leisere Lfter vertragen.
Etwas unpraktisch finde ich am Vyper die nach vorn herausragende Y-Schiene bzw. das vorn verkrzte Gehuse. Wenn nach dem Druck das noch heie Heizbett ganz vorn ist, mu man es erst nach hinten schieben, um an die Toolbox oder an die SD-Card heranzukommen.
Die Positionierung des USB-Eingangs an der Vorderseite ist zwar bei einer nur gelegentlichen Nutzung ganz praktisch, aber nicht bei einem dauerhaften Anschlu. Auch der Ein-/Ausschalter an der Rckseite, links, ist eher eine unglckliche Position.
Der seitlich anzubringende Filament-Rollenhalter aus Plastik nimmt mir persnlich zu viel Platz auf dem Tisch in Anspruch (Platzbedarf des Vyper in der Breite mit Filamentrolle: knapp 80 cm). Ich finde es besser, wenn sich der Rollenhalter oben auf dem Rahmen befindet (fr das damit verbundene Unwucht-Problem habe ich eine eigene Lsung entwickelt).
Der Vyper hat jetzt zwar eine berarbeitete Firmware, trotzdem funktioniert bei ihm das Filament-Change-Script von Cura nicht so recht. Zumindest beim Druck ber USB-Kabel funktionierte es bei mir nicht. Es half dann der berhmte “Trick 17”, der hier so aussieht: Man fge das Cura-Script “PauseAtHeight” in den Druckauftrag ein und drcke dann, wenn der Vyper per Script parkt, auch den Pause-Button in Cura und wechsle dann das Filament (dabei unbedingt ein Stck Filament im Sensor steckenlassen oder ihn von vornherein auf diese Weise umgehen).
Auch wenn ich am Anycubic Vyper einiges gern ein bichen anders htte, bin ich mit ihm trotzdem insgesamt sehr zufrieden, denn die positiven Dinge berwiegen meiner Ansicht nach deutlich. Dieser 3D-Drucker ist solide gebaut, druckt gut und bietet auerdem viel ntzlichen Komfort. Ich wrde mir den Anycubic Vyper auch ein zweites Mal kaufen (und dann eben wieder an meine Bedrfnisse anpassen, soweit das machbar ist).
Dislikes 1st: A: Product ships to the USA set for 220VAC. Todays world I expect a universal input PS. B: Guide studs for installation of Z axis supports would be a wonderful upgrade. It is surprisingly easy to miss the threaded hole when mounting this critical step. Now for the likes. 1: print quality is at least as good as commercial 3D print shop products. Filiment print that is. 2: easy set up. Even with my whine about the z axis. 30 minutes to up and running. For 1st time users, pay attention to the temp labels on your filiment. Super important! Great product so far.
This is my first FDM Printer. I changed from a Resin Printer to The Viper 3D FDM and I have to say not only was it easy to use, it printed exactly what I wanted it to print with excellent results and 0 fails.
I am not saying that this printer doesn’t have the odd very minor quality issue here and there but I am saying that its an amazing printer and the results where flawless far beyond my expectations. I am so happy with my Vyper!
I would recommend buying some Silicone Socks for the Hotend as this does keep the plastic and residue off the copper nozzle.
The assembly was very easy and the machine is easy to understand and use. The projects I have done, 3 so far, look great. Now if all of the software programs and file conversions were that easy.
I had never had an FDM printer prior to this one. I have a Peopoly Moai as my SLA printer, but I wanted to get my grandson a small printer, which I did get him an Etina, but I wanted a larger one for myself. After looking at the Ender 3Pro first, I felt this was a better value. After receiving it, I found it VERY easy to assemble. Like a prior user said, you do have to move it around a bit, but, being an Engineer, I found it VERY easy to assemble and had it up and running in 14 minutes! It took about 5 minutes to level the bed and load the enclosed filament, and I was printing very quickly.
Any and all problems I’ve had with it have been completely of my own doing, but Anycubic has been OUTSTANDING about sending replacement parts! I shorted the head out by using a metal ruler to measure the bed, and I admitted to them I had shorted it out myself, but they still sent me free replacement parts.
Great product! Great Company! Great Support!
Love this printer. Quality and ease of use is fantastic. Wish I would gotten this a long time ago
This printer is great for beginners. The setup of the machine took roughly 20-25 minutes. Auto bed leveling made the experience a breeze and I was printing right away. The touch screen is awesome and the printer is super quiet when in use. I would recommend to a beginner if you’re looking for an easy to use, intuitive machine that also delivers beautiful print quality.
Although I initially had difficulty with auto level this was quickly sorted (I had not fully inserted a plug)
All working well and no problems.
Not sure what more I can ask for. Perhaps just a bigger bed if I had the option but I haven’t really needed a bigger bed for anything just yet.
I’ve been working it hard almost non-stop for the past two months. Very happy with it right out of the box.
Another complaint and I see this all over the internet, is that the owl demo file isn’t in the root of the SD card. The printer can’t do subfolders so it can’t see the file. I had to find an old laptop first to fit the old-style full-size SD card, then move the file to the root of the card. How hard is it to have it in the root from the get-go? I only figured it out because of 3rd party videos online
The slicing software, Cura, is great software but it is a really old version. It comes with version 4.2.1. The current version is 5.1.0. Please download the latest (it’s free) and don’t bother with what’s on the SD card. The old version doesn’t even have the Vyper in its profiles. You have to change the name and import a profile which again is on this ancient type of SD card. The new version has the Vyper profile built in.
I mean, really, how much trouble is it to put the demo file in the root and put a new Cura version on the card?
Last problem is I’m in the US. The printer is shipping from the US but the voltage was set to 230 volts (Europe). It went all the way through the self-leveling fine even set at 230v. But when I went to print, the touch screen just turns off and does nothing. The touch screen still beeps when you press on it but doesn’t do a thing. I found the fix for this obscurely on the internet. Once I set the voltage to 120v it worked fine. If it’s shipping in the US then set it at the factory!!!
This is 3d Printer is supposed to be for the beginner. Please tell me how a beginner is going to figure out all this and deal with ancient tech? The Vyper is a recent addition to the Anycubic line. Why is it using ancient tech that no one uses anymore?
Very nice to have the removable print bed, pretty much plug and play after a simple assembly. Very solid quality
This is my first 3d printer, so I’ve nothing to compare it to, but it’s well made and solid. It produces good quality prints. The instructions aren’t the best but it’s very easy to use. It’s a lot cheaper if you buy it from the Anycubic shop – about 100 cheaper when I bought it.
However, few things worth noting about this printer, especially for beginners.
1) Installation is *not* 1-2-3 steps easy as shown in their marketing video. You have to hold the printer almost completely upside-down to get screws into it, which sometimes trap cords underneath the frame bits, and after you’ve finished with the elbow grease assembly (screwing the frame together, screwing the LCD panel in, clamping the filament holder in), then you have to plug in virtually *all* the cords for this thing. For every step motor (4?), for the LCD screen, 3 for the hotend, connect the tubing, connect the larger black cord etc. Thankfully the cords are at least labelled with X, Y, ZR etc but the places they are meant to be plugged into are not labelled. Didn’t count, but felt like there were at least 12 cords that needed to be plugged in to various places. Then after that, you have to channel your inner contortionist to cut all the zip ties that are buried on this printer without nicking any of the necessary cords or belts, in incredibly poorly visible spots like under the center of the bed. None of the tools provided could reach these zip ties, so I ended up folding myself in half with my cell phone flash light trying to carefully cut a zip tie with a pair of shears. This is not “beginner” level installation, and I would not recommend it for anyone who has even a minor disability or handicap.
2) The machine is *not* silent. It is very quiet, don’t get me wrong, but it does make noise when it prints (a humming sound along with the whirring of the fans usually but occasionally a sort of buzzing thud if the nozzle catches on the print). The fans an be turned off, but even with them at 0% the printer still makes noise. I would guess its a little louder than the level of a loud AC unit or refrigerator. Again, ignore the marketing lies, this printer will make noise.
3) The filament feed is *not* direct to the hotend. This is important because that feature can reduce the amount of potential clogs for filament being fed into the printer. This printer (like most 3D printers) uses bowden tubing with a gear setup to feed filament into the hotend. I saw this in the specs on this amazon listing page and it is blatantly false advertising.
4) The scraper tool included with this printer is basically a putty knife. It is almost completely dull. I would not recommend it for actually scraping up prints, buy yourself a finer scraper made of metal and not plastic. Most of the time this tool is not necessary to get prints off the bed due to the textured surface that the Anycubic Vyper uses, but in the rare cases where you do need a little bit of extra oomph, don’t waste your time with this scraper.
5) This printer runs quite a bit slower than average. A print that might take 1h or the Ender 3 Pro could take 3-4 on this printer. I think its due to the finer details this printer can achieve while printing, but worth knowing. You can change your print rate in the settings on a per print basis, but because of the fixed rate of filament extrusion, I haven’t messed with this too much. I was worried it might affect the quality of my prints. If you’re looking for fast production efficiency, this probably isn’t the right printer for you.
Some pros of this printer for beginners include the auto levelling bed, the easy to remove prints bed, and the touch screen.
This printer works well, and has some very nice features. Auto levelling bed, textured and flexible bed for easier print removal, SD card reader with included microSD and SD cards, data cable for direct hookup to raspberry pis or arduinos, touch screen, ‘quiet’ printing all come to mind. I haven’t had the printer clog yet (been using it for a few days 24/7), and the prints come out with very fine details (lines much less visible than on other 3D Printers I’ve tried), and they are easier to remove from the bed as well (I have only had to ‘scrape off’ one print so far and it was with a filament that is notoriously tough). I also haven’t had any leaks or issues with this printer thus far.
The inclusion of 5 or 6 alan wrenches was a nice touch, personally I really appreciated the data cable as well. The microSD card came preloaded with some test files (and formatted) so that was nice as well. The pliers that came with this printer are pretty poor, so maybe pick up a better pair for yourself if you’re buying this printer. The zip ties were also a nice touch for the bowden tubing.
If you’re looking for highly detailed prints and don’t care how long they take to produce, this is a top notch printer. If you’re a beginner or looking for high production output, this is probably not the right printer for you.
This is my first 3d printer. Super easy set up, has been printing like a dream. I may buy a second one to print projects faster. Love it!
Easy to get along with, fasinating bit of equipment, can’t stop printing stuff, good value for money and does everything it says on the tin. Reliable so far.
Very good 3D printer for beginners especially due to the self levelling bed. It’s amazing how easy it is to get it going. The lift up magnetic bed is also much better in my opinion ion as you can lift your prints off of it so easy
Both faster and better prints than either of my enders, both enders are problematic, need constant leveling, one will not print PETG the other TPU , the Viper has no issues so far.
After much research I decided on this printer, the reviews didn’t lie.
I was printing an hour after it arrived at my door.
Assembly was a breeze, the instructions were very clear, in fact I highly suggest you read it thoroughly, there are some hidden zip ties that need to be removed.
This thing has been printing nearly nonstop for weeks and hasn’t missed a beat. I had a few prints warp on the table during a print (most likely from cold drafts ) but I purchased a printer cover for it and have not had a print go bad since.
The dual z axis, heated magnetic bed, auto leveling bed, a beast of a hot end and filament detector are all things I would have upgraded to from a cheaper 3d printer anyway probably for more money and definitely more of a headache.
The extras we worth the slightly higher price.
I don’t like that the z axis doesn’t automatically raise after the print , a few times I was left with a slightly melted divet where residual heat from the hot end in the final part of the print.
There were some reviews that said it was loud, I don’t find it loud at all, especially now it’s under a tent cover.
Also uses the common size filament reels…only a Dremel reel will fit in a Dremel, so it’s rewinding, or paying Dremel premium prices.
This thing is an absolute knock out!!
I’m an engineer and private pilot, so I’m not easily impressed …but this falls into the.. they actually did it right!… category. Assembly is ultra easy and it’s rock solid…not some flimsy toy. Had to make zero adjustments. Packed like it was shipping to Mars!
Did a test run…not the owl, a piece I needed. It’s at least 25% faster than the Dremel, makes 1/4 the noise (I would call this quiet after my old one), the bed is fabulous, and the print quality way beyond expectations! Absolutely perfect print! I have it chewing on parts for my flight simulator cyclic now.
I have a large complex piece to print next. I know it’s going to do a heck of a job! And out the door delivered for less than $500. Wow!
Amazing!
Purchase this!! Smiles guaranteed!
Summary: Great machine with higher quality parts than a base Ender. Love it. OK, in to the details:
I finally made the 3D printer plunge after reading dozens of reviews. One review said this printer is like an Ender with a lot of upgrades. The machine came very well packed and had no damage. The frame is super well made, all cuts and holes are perfect. Assembly very easy, and assembly tools are included. I had mine assembled and printing in about 45 minutes. Now that I’ve done it once, I could probably assemble another in 15 minutes.
The included SD card has a file of a small owl figurine ready to print. It printed perfectly. Next I downloaded the “3D Benchy” boat figure. It printed perfectly also. I have printed a couple of things from Thingiverse, and after running them through the slicer, they too printed perfectly. I’m now going through 3D CAD tutorials so I can design my own parts. Love this machine.
If the Vyper does not have a big enough build volume, get the Anycubic Kobra Max. Pretty much the same machine on a bigger frame.
Mein erster 3D Drucker. Also keinerlei Vorerfahrung. Aufbau ist gut beschrieben, Gert funktioniert einwandfrei. Auch mein Sohn nutzt das Gert bereits problemlos. Haben bereits verschiedene Materialien verarbeitet. Alles wie versprochen. TOP. Klare Kaufempfehlung!!
Rasch zusammengebaut, leider keine Deutsche Beschreibung, ansonsten einfache Handhabung und fr Anfnger gut geeignet. Druckergebnisse sehr gut Preis Leistungsverhltnis ist in Ordnung, ich kann diesen Drucker nur weiter empfehlen.
Das ist mein erster 3D Drucker. Der Aufbau ist kinderleicht und dauert keine 20 min. Die 10m mitgeliefertes Filament sind ein Witz, man mu halt vor dem Kauf wissen das man auch sofort ein, zwei Rollen vom Wunschmaterial kaufen mu. Ansonsten sind die ersten Druckversuche frustfrei, selbst als kritisch bekanntes Filament wie TPU wird vllig problemlos eingezogen und mit nahezu Standardeinstellungen fehlerlos gedruckt. Als Slicer habe ich Cura benutzt, meine Teile werden in FreeCAD konstruiert, alles funktioniert reibungslos zusammen. Auch wenn der Preis jetzt hher ist als die einschlgigen Netzvideos versprechen: Kaufempfehlung!
Il montaggio molto semplice (consiglio di seguire la guida in pdf), dura al massimo 5 minuti, poi pronta per stampare. Ho eseguito il yest di stampa, la qualit davvero ottima, zero sbavature, il piatto non richiede lacca, il livellamento dura pochi minuti, sono molto sodisfatto… mi riservo di aggiornare feedback tra qualche settimana.
Excellent quality compared to voxelab Aquila which I got bought for Christmas and only managed test print then had to send back. printing within 1/2 hr only 7 screws to put it together not like many others that come in like 50 bits and take a couple of hrs to put together would recommend to all
I’ve been involved in 3d printing for over 10 years and have had printers from several manufacturers, including Anycubic ( which were my previous 2 printers). But this one beats them all. i’ts inquiet accurate and we’ll made and bed ahesion is very good. Construction is beyond
I would say this was fairly straightforward to assemble but you needed to look carefully at the pictures as well as read the instructions. I got stuck for a little bit because I was looking for the axis plugs and they were taped underneath the platform so not readily visible. But other than that up and running in an hour
I started printing small prototypes then much larger pieces. I have never done this before so I was amazed at the first few items. Looking critically at the printed pieces and you can see small imperfections in the print. That said, I printed a couple nuts and bolts for a telescope setup with 1mm threads and they worked perfectly, so impressive.
One thing to realize if you have never used one- they take forever. I am printing a 5x5x9 inch piece adapter and it has been printing for 2 days continuously.
I have had this for under a month and have had it running over 200 hours and it just chugs along. I have heard of issues with print failures but I haven’t had any except for my own mistakes on calculations.
Best toy I ever bought .I wonder what my electric bill will be…..
I have this printer for about over a month. It was pretty easy to assemble and the instruction was ok. There are some things that could be fixed but for the most part, it is pretty straightforward. There are some great features that the first one didn’t have like the heated bed and the leveling corners function. The magnetic bed works awesome. I have been using it to print different calibration cubes, benchies, and fun things. Once you find out the best slicer program for you it works great (I used Cura with Mega Zero printer settings). I feel like it prints pretty awesome for a budget 3d printer. There are better printers out there but for the price and what you get, I think it is a pretty good deal. The best print I had was the pop socket holder and the benchy on the right. I had to find the best setting for it. If you are looking for a 3D printer to start learning or just get into it, this printer is differently a candidate for you.
I owned 3 different printers before purchasing the AnyCubic Mega Zero 2.0. For a printer of this size, it performs and prints so well. For my other printers, I would need to print one piece at a time to print with the highest quality. The Mega Zero 2.0 does not have a problem printing multiple prints at once. This may vary depending on what you print, but for my needs it is perfect. It is also super robust and sturdy. I run this printer almost constantly and it has held up well and produces genuinely nice prints. The nozzle is super smooth, which is a nice feature because, in the past, the nozzle would collect plastic and cause issues in the long run. When looking at how much I print (3-6 prints a day) and still being smooth with little to no maintenance, it is a high-quality nozzle. The screen is nice because the font is easy to read on the screen which is great. The Assembly of the printer is very straightforward as well. Unlike some printers where you need to build the printer from the ground up, this printer is packaged in a way that it isn’t hard to follow the directions and build quickly and correctly. I recommend this printer to anyone who would like to get into 3D printing or want a solid compact printer.
Printer Hardware: This is the second anycubic product I’ve had and they just keep getting better! This design is very smooth and durable, the metal axis bars really make it easy to print things especially with large travel inbetween objects. The stepper motors are an obvious bonus because it makes these machines very silent. I have three printers in my laundry room and this makes a big difference. Also, the larger leveling dials make it very nice to level precisely.
Assembly: From the second I took it out of the box to first print it took me 28 mins flat! Fastest and easiest printer to assemble and operate. The spin dial is very easy to navigate and as long as you follow the directions on the initial setup to print and get filament through the extruder is very easy.
Print Quality: Very smooth. In the initial print you can see how seamlessly the printer extruder glides along the x-axis. I like to print some game pieces and with some other printers I can’t print more than one tile at a time, but this printer travels quickly and allows me to mass-print things while still maintaining quality. The layers are perfect and just like any computer, based on what the user tell the 3d printer to do. So before you start complaining that the printer won’t work properly, make sure you are using the correct settings, because everything is printing perfectly on mine! 10/10 would recommend this and have already recommended it to my friends and family.
This is a great starting printer for those that want to get into 3D printing. It was not too difficult to set up and get running. I did see a few issues, but they are minor, and I think I only saw them because I am used to my AnyCubic i3 S.
This is a very quiet machine. I was able to run it while I was working in the same room a definite plus over my AnyCubic i3 S. I really liked the magnetic build plate. With it having a little bit of a texture to it the prints were able to stick very nicely and didn’t need the use of a brim or raft. That being said that doesn’t mean that it will always be that way for all prints.
I really like the user interface; I am having a hard time deciding if I like the knob better than the touch screen or not. I like them both.
Leveling the build plat was really nice experience over the i3 S. They have the option to level right in the menu and it will move from corner to corner for you. The leveling knobs are also bigger that those on the i3 S which I really liked.
The only thing that I didn’t like was the set-up instructions. There were 2 wired that were not labeled and had no reference in the instructions as to where they went. I was able to figure it out and things went better from there.
I have really liked the AnyCubic printers and will continue to support them.
First Impressions:
The Mega Zero 2.0 is a solid printer. Has comparable build volume to the i3 Mega series, at a cheaper price. And they have listened to customers and added a heated, improved build plate since their initial Mega Zero 1.0s.
The Good:
I really like the magnetic build surface. I printed the stock owl benchy right away. When finished I gave it a good wiggle, and was well adhered to the bed despite a poor first layer. When still hot after printing I could just pull up the magnet and flex, and the print popped right off. I was looking for a way to upgrade my Mega S to this system before the Zero 2.0 came out, and couldn’t find a build plate that covered it perfectly. This is an exact match, and I will probably make switch if my Ultrabase is ever ruined by a print that is just too adhered.
Much easier to access the motherboard and other important parts than the i3 Mega. You don’t have to disassemble half the printer to get to them. Which should make eventual tinkering and upgrades a easier process.
The Not So Bad:
The set up took a little more time than the i3 Mega S. With the Mega S I was printing witching 15 minutes of opening the box, no joke. The Zero 2.0 was more like 45 min to an hour. There are less screws to assembly than the Mega S, but it was just harder to get the holes to line up. The Zero 2.0 wiring wasn’t just 3 connector plugs and done like the Mega S, but was still easy to follow if you looked at the diagram and pictures carefully.
I also don’t like how it has only one z axis motor and lead screw. But I understand that it is a cheaper model, and it’s Creality Ender 3 series equivalent is the same way. But it is possible for $30-$40 and a little wiring to install a second.
Like all printers it needs tuning to make it great. But it perfectly acceptable print quality right out of the box. Will be flashing to a newer firmware as soon as possible to get mesh-bed leveling working. It should come stock, but is a free and painless upgrade to do yourself on day one. That leveling, and some stepper and flow calibration, takes all prints to the next level.
It was packaged really well, and the instructions were pretty easy to follow. Putting it together with one person is doable, but having a second to help hold things up while you screw parts together can be helpful. Every screw type is labeled in a small bag, and it’s really only a few steps to get it up and going. In total, it took just over 30 minutes to put together, and I could definitely do it faster now that I’ve done it once before.
Before your first print you will need to level the printer. The firmware on this printer makes it pretty easy to do, as it moves the nozzle from corner to corner where you just adjust the height with the screw on the bottom. Do the cycle a few times as each time you level a corner it slightly adjusts the whole build plate. I printed the included owl file and it was fast and QUIET. I was very impressed with how quiet it was while heating up and printing as compared to my other printer.
The included settings profile for Cura (the software you will use to prepare and slice your prints) have worked great so far. I will likely tweak them in the future as I fine tune them to just where I want, but they are a great starting point.
I really don’t think you can go wrong with this printer. It’s a great price, the print quality is really nice, and the magnetic build plate makes removing prints off a breeze!
When the printer arrived I found that it was very well packaged. The printer came in four pieces making it was very easy to assemble. The leveling instructions were straight forward and I believe that I was able to get it level it on the first attempt (see attached image of bed leveling print). You have to manually adjust the corresponding nuts underneath the printing platform using the paper leveling method.
The printer is loud as it does not have a silent board, so it has to be put in area not to disturb others. -1 star The profiles that are provided on the SD card for Cura do not work. I ended up just making the adjustments in Cura myself as I go along.
The owl’s base was a hot mess, the file was included as a printer on the included SD card. For the initial owl print I used the included filament. I printed that same owl with some Duramic PLA+ and the base came out much better.
Things I like:
Easy assembly
Good hardware and tools
Prints good
Things I don’t like:
Loud
Cura profiles included on the SD card don’t work