UniBond 2079362 Anti-Mould Ivory, Waterproof Mould
UniBond 2079362 Anti-Mould Ivory, Waterproof Mould Protection Kitchen & Bathroom Sealant, Long-lasting Ivory Silicone Sealant, Powerful Bath Sealant, 1 x 274 g Cartridge
About UniBond
In the UK, UniBond offers a wide range of DIY products – Construction Adhesives, Sealants and Tile Adhesives. By offering guidance and smart total bonding solutions, it simplifies every kind of DIY job for both inside and outside the house.
Weight: | 274 g |
Dimensions: | 5 x 5 x 23 cm; 274 Grams |
Model: | 2079362 |
Part: | 2079362 |
Colour: | Antimould Ivory Cartridge |
Pack Quantity: | 1 |
Batteries Required: | No |
Batteries Included: | No |
Manufacture: | Henkel Ltd |
Dimensions: | 5 x 5 x 23 cm; 274 Grams |
Quantity: | 1 |
Needed to use on my shower, and the one in my garage had turned to a solid block. So bought this here, good price delivered next day and does its job.
Much better than cheaper silicon as it seals baths and shower it’s no problem also lasts for a while and stays brilliant white so I can easily reccomend and it’s worth the extra price
As my headline states, this is still one of the best sealants around that give you a proper watertight seal that lasts a lot longer than other manufacturers. It says it’s mould resistant, but that doesn’t mean that the mould won’t come back, it just resists it for longer. I’ve used this before so I am talking from experience, and the mould stays away a lot longer with this than other cheaper products.
This is a bit pricey but I think it’s worth paying the money for as it’s performance is second to none. The reason why I gave this 4 stars instead of 5 as because it still has the age old issue with the nozzle clogging up after you have used it and left it on the shelf for a few days.
This sealant is very good and long lasting after applying. The white colour didn’t become yellowish and it doesn’t come off. So if applied correctly it it’s very solid. Looks great in my shower room
I’m no expert when it comes to sealing around baths etc, but with Unibond I did a pretty good, almost professional looking, job . It flowed easily and set quickly.
A winner for me.
When using a silicon sealant, thorough preparation is crucial. Remove old sealant, clean the area with white spirit, and ensure it is completely dry. Practice using a cartridge gun and apply the sealant starting from the corner for bath applications. Smooth the sealant within 5 minutes using a tool or a latex-gloved finger. Additionally, the product page provides more valuable tips. Filling the bath with water before applying the sealant prevents stretching and breaking of the seal. Keep the surface clean, cut the cartridge tip, trim the nozzle, and apply the sealant using the gun. Smooth it within 5 minutes, remove excess sealant with white spirit, and allow it to dry for at least 24 hours based on conditions.
As usual in a shower even the original sealant goes black with mould over time
I cut out the defective area and used this sealant to renew
It comes with a small nozzle and was easy to apply
It cured vet quickly and now looks like new
Just a tip when making joint put water on finger which stops sticking
Alternatively use a stick with a chamfers end which you keep dipping in water to produce a good finish
This stuff is brilliant to be fair but it has some perks. It dries fairly quick sticks well but has an odour, it’s got a gritty feel when wet and dries very hard rubbery unlike cheaper sealants which are like a elasticated jelly this stuff is harder somewhat tougher to the touch. Seals well however, around dirt, dust and areas where it is hard to clean it seems to be a magnet for it. I have never found a sealant yet that does not just suck dirt and dust to it like a magnet and this is no exception. A quick spray and wipe brings it back to white and because of its harder tougher nature you cloth it tissue does not bind to the sealant it wipes over it white smoothly actually. Is it worth the price, I don’t think so, its good but overpriced for what it is, inferior sealants would do the job without the above pros but again I like the pros but would not consider paying 5x the going price for them
I used this UniBond White Silicone Sealant to re-finish a kitchen worktop. After two years, the majority of the sealant is still bright white, however, there is a small patch of black mould on the section just behind the taps.
To apply the sealant, I found the best method was to use a plastic sealant finishing tool (See below). This tool helped me to smooth out the sealant and create a clean, professional-looking finish. It also made it easy to control the amount of sealant that was applied, which helped to prevent any excess from building up.
The sealant itself was easy to use and had a nice consistency, making it easy to spread and smooth out. It had a typical sealant smell and didn’t cause any irritation when I used it.
In general, I found this sealant to be a good quality product that was easy to use and provided a nice finish. However, the small patch of black mould on the section just behind the taps is a reminder that it is important to keep the surface clean & dry.
Applying this can be done with a standard caulking gun, but for a more professional finish, a plastic sealant finishing tool can be used.
Here are the steps to apply the sealant with a plastic sealant finishing tool: (YouTube also has some good videos showing how to apply it using the tool)
1. Cut the nozzle of the sealant tube to the desired width.
2. Apply a steady and consistent bead of sealant along the area where you want to seal.
3. Use the plastic sealant finishing tool to smooth out the sealant, ensuring that it is evenly distributed and fills all gaps.
4. Use the tool to create a smooth and clean surface, paying special attention to corners.
5. To apply the sealant around corners, hold the tool at a 45-degree angle and use the corner of the tool to press the sealant into the corner. Then use the flat edge of the tool to smooth out the sealant, making sure that the corner is filled and the sealant is flush with the surface.
6. Clean any excess sealant with a damp cloth or paper towel.
7. Allow the sealant to dry and cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
It is also important to note that the surface should be clean, dry and free of any mould before applying the sealant. If there is any mould, it is important to remove it before applying the sealant in order to ensure the sealant will adhere properly and prevent the mold from coming back.
I got this as there were small gaps between my windows and the sills that had started to show signs of black mould because water was pooling there from the window condensation. Honestly this has brightened up the areas so much so that I’ve used it on 4 window ledges so far. I used a small silicone spreading tool once it was on and it spead so nicely. It dries really quite quick so I’d fix any errors immediately. I noticed that something had blown into the one in the kitchen so I removed it to reapply a fresh line. I used the sharp end of the silicone spreading tool to lift it and it came away immediately with no hassle whatsoever. I understand that this is because it was applied the same day but I’m just thankful it didn’t cause a mess. It has that typical sealant smell that’s quite vinegary but it does vanish the same day. If you want a refresh I’d definitely recommend. Took about 25 minutes in total and the whole place looks fresh and clean.
I was very pleased with this UniBond white silicone sealant. It is easy to apply if you take care (see below for some useful tips which helped me achieve a professional-looking result) and has certainly resisted mould in our bathroom which is used two or three times every evening for adult and child bath times for a few years. It is touch dry in 20 minutes and fully cured in 24 hours. It evolves acetic acid (the same chemical in vinegar) during the curing process so there is a strong odour of vinegar but there are worse odours from paints, etc. If you replace the red cap, remaining product will be available for re-use for up to 3 months so long as you store it in a cool, dry conditions protected from frost, so a garage is ideal but not an outdoor shed over winter. Great product, read on for essential tips…
(1) Firstly, buy a good quality cartridge gun; the one I use has a sturdy yellow powder-coated metal frame with equally sturdy ABS plastic actuation levers. The thick zinc plated rod has the compression disc attached by a standard hex nut that secures it in place allowing the mechanism to be tightened, adjusted, repaired and replaced unlike many cheaper ‘throwaway’ items you often see for sale in big shed DIY stores.
(2) I picked up some good application tips from a tradesman a few years ago which has helped me avoid continual frustration from unprofessional and untidy looking DIY: before applying silicone sealant around a bath, mask off around the gap and HALF FILL THE BATH with water. This helps prevent the dried sealant stretching and cracking when the bath is used because the cured silicone will be roughly in the middle of its elastic zone, i.e. half-stretched with sufficient margin to both expand and relax. Smooth the bead with a silicone tool or damp finger the remove the masking tape before the sealant is fully dry to expose a clean, professional-looking sealant bead.
Moved into a new flat and found whomever installed the bath was an utter cowboy. The seal was applied with a finger, so ended up being very thin and done when the bath was empty. So when I took my first bath, the seal pulled away from the wall and a 5mm gap opened up along the length of the bath.
So I bought this and the unibond silicone finishing tool (any silicone finishing tool will make the job a lot better, the unibond one is cheap and easy to clean) and applied a proper seal in a 3 quarter filled bath. I prefer to cut my nozzle straight vs at a 45 degree angle as I find it allows for a more consistent bead for the finishing tool to smooth over. The silicone comes out the tube very smoothly (caulking gun required obviously), easy to control, sticks to cleaned surfaces well and was a charm to smooth over with the tool.
The outer surface cures quite quickly (within 5 to 10 minutes) so you need to be quick if you apply it to the whole bath before smoothing over otherwise the surface won’t be perfectly smooth and parts will appear streaky. Doing it in sections would be easier for a total beginner but I’m not a professional by any means and managed the whole bath in one go pretty easily.
Unfortunately, I had to fully remove the bath 6 weeks later to get at some pipework and the silicone is very difficult to remove when dried (if it dries on your clothes, it’s pretty much permanent). I tried WD40, white spirit, rubbing alcohol, silicone removal spray and tools, etc with little effect. Ever so slightly easier to remove but it stank and made quite a mess. Eventually, I found the best way was to use a chisel and no chemicals. Run the flat bit along the wall then the bath to separate the seal as much as possible then the bulk of it can be pulled off, with the remaining smaller bits removed easily with a razor blade or a Stanley blade.
I normally put a screw in the nozzle to close it (another reason for cutting at 90 degrees) but the provided cap on the nozzle was a nice touch and works well. After 6 weeks, the sealant in the nozzle was still good to go and showed minimal signs of drying. I managed to seal the bath twice, a wash hand basin, and a window frame and still had a little left over.
No complaints with this silicone and will suit all your DIY needs