UniBond 2079362 Anti-Mould Ivory, Waterproof Mould

UniBond 2079362 Anti-Mould Ivory, Waterproof Mould Protection Kitchen & Bathroom Sealant, Long-lasting Ivory Silicone Sealant, Powerful Bath Sealant, 1 x 274 g Cartridge




About UniBond
In the UK, UniBond offers a wide range of DIY products – Construction Adhesives, Sealants and Tile Adhesives. By offering guidance and smart total bonding solutions, it simplifies every kind of DIY job for both inside and outside the house.
Weight: | 274 g |
Dimensions: | 5 x 5 x 23 cm; 274 Grams |
Model: | 2079362 |
Part: | 2079362 |
Colour: | Antimould Ivory Cartridge |
Pack Quantity: | 1 |
Batteries Required: | No |
Batteries Included: | No |
Manufacture: | Henkel Ltd |
Dimensions: | 5 x 5 x 23 cm; 274 Grams |
Quantity: | 1 |
Needed to use on my shower, and the one in my garage had turned to a solid block. So bought this here, good price delivered next day and does its job.
Much better than cheaper silicon as it seals baths and shower it’s no problem also lasts for a while and stays brilliant white so I can easily reccomend and it’s worth the extra price
As my headline states, this is still one of the best sealants around that give you a proper watertight seal that lasts a lot longer than other manufacturers. It says it’s mould resistant, but that doesn’t mean that the mould won’t come back, it just resists it for longer. I’ve used this before so I am talking from experience, and the mould stays away a lot longer with this than other cheaper products.
This is a bit pricey but I think it’s worth paying the money for as it’s performance is second to none. The reason why I gave this 4 stars instead of 5 as because it still has the age old issue with the nozzle clogging up after you have used it and left it on the shelf for a few days.
This sealant is very good and long lasting after applying. The white colour didn’t become yellowish and it doesn’t come off. So if applied correctly it it’s very solid. Looks great in my shower room
I’m no expert when it comes to sealing around baths etc, but with Unibond I did a pretty good, almost professional looking, job . It flowed easily and set quickly.
A winner for me.
As usual in a shower even the original sealant goes black with mould over time
I cut out the defective area and used this sealant to renew
It comes with a small nozzle and was easy to apply
It cured vet quickly and now looks like new
Just a tip when making joint put water on finger which stops sticking
Alternatively use a stick with a chamfers end which you keep dipping in water to produce a good finish
To apply the sealant, I found the best method was to use a plastic sealant finishing tool (See below). This tool helped me to smooth out the sealant and create a clean, professional-looking finish. It also made it easy to control the amount of sealant that was applied, which helped to prevent any excess from building up.
The sealant itself was easy to use and had a nice consistency, making it easy to spread and smooth out. It had a typical sealant smell and didn’t cause any irritation when I used it.
In general, I found this sealant to be a good quality product that was easy to use and provided a nice finish. However, the small patch of black mould on the section just behind the taps is a reminder that it is important to keep the surface clean & dry.
Applying this can be done with a standard caulking gun, but for a more professional finish, a plastic sealant finishing tool can be used.
Here are the steps to apply the sealant with a plastic sealant finishing tool: (YouTube also has some good videos showing how to apply it using the tool)
1. Cut the nozzle of the sealant tube to the desired width.
2. Apply a steady and consistent bead of sealant along the area where you want to seal.
3. Use the plastic sealant finishing tool to smooth out the sealant, ensuring that it is evenly distributed and fills all gaps.
4. Use the tool to create a smooth and clean surface, paying special attention to corners.
5. To apply the sealant around corners, hold the tool at a 45-degree angle and use the corner of the tool to press the sealant into the corner. Then use the flat edge of the tool to smooth out the sealant, making sure that the corner is filled and the sealant is flush with the surface.
6. Clean any excess sealant with a damp cloth or paper towel.
7. Allow the sealant to dry and cure according to the manufacturer’s instructions.
It is also important to note that the surface should be clean, dry and free of any mould before applying the sealant. If there is any mould, it is important to remove it before applying the sealant in order to ensure the sealant will adhere properly and prevent the mold from coming back.
(1) Firstly, buy a good quality cartridge gun; the one I use has a sturdy yellow powder-coated metal frame with equally sturdy ABS plastic actuation levers. The thick zinc plated rod has the compression disc attached by a standard hex nut that secures it in place allowing the mechanism to be tightened, adjusted, repaired and replaced unlike many cheaper ‘throwaway’ items you often see for sale in big shed DIY stores.
(2) I picked up some good application tips from a tradesman a few years ago which has helped me avoid continual frustration from unprofessional and untidy looking DIY: before applying silicone sealant around a bath, mask off around the gap and HALF FILL THE BATH with water. This helps prevent the dried sealant stretching and cracking when the bath is used because the cured silicone will be roughly in the middle of its elastic zone, i.e. half-stretched with sufficient margin to both expand and relax. Smooth the bead with a silicone tool or damp finger the remove the masking tape before the sealant is fully dry to expose a clean, professional-looking sealant bead.
So I bought this and the unibond silicone finishing tool (any silicone finishing tool will make the job a lot better, the unibond one is cheap and easy to clean) and applied a proper seal in a 3 quarter filled bath. I prefer to cut my nozzle straight vs at a 45 degree angle as I find it allows for a more consistent bead for the finishing tool to smooth over. The silicone comes out the tube very smoothly (caulking gun required obviously), easy to control, sticks to cleaned surfaces well and was a charm to smooth over with the tool.
The outer surface cures quite quickly (within 5 to 10 minutes) so you need to be quick if you apply it to the whole bath before smoothing over otherwise the surface won’t be perfectly smooth and parts will appear streaky. Doing it in sections would be easier for a total beginner but I’m not a professional by any means and managed the whole bath in one go pretty easily.
Unfortunately, I had to fully remove the bath 6 weeks later to get at some pipework and the silicone is very difficult to remove when dried (if it dries on your clothes, it’s pretty much permanent). I tried WD40, white spirit, rubbing alcohol, silicone removal spray and tools, etc with little effect. Ever so slightly easier to remove but it stank and made quite a mess. Eventually, I found the best way was to use a chisel and no chemicals. Run the flat bit along the wall then the bath to separate the seal as much as possible then the bulk of it can be pulled off, with the remaining smaller bits removed easily with a razor blade or a Stanley blade.
I normally put a screw in the nozzle to close it (another reason for cutting at 90 degrees) but the provided cap on the nozzle was a nice touch and works well. After 6 weeks, the sealant in the nozzle was still good to go and showed minimal signs of drying. I managed to seal the bath twice, a wash hand basin, and a window frame and still had a little left over.
No complaints with this silicone and will suit all your DIY needs