eXtremeRate Clear Atomic Purple Custom Faceplate Back Plate
eXtremeRate Clear Atomic Purple Custom Faceplate Back Plate for Steam Deck, Handheld Console Replacement Housing Case, DIY Full Set Shell with Buttons for Steam Deck Console – Console NOT Included
Custom Replacement Shell Case for Steam Deck
- Want to make your handheld console stand out from the crowd?
- This is the way to go!
- Great customization option for DIY enthusiasts with a handheld console for Steam Deck.
- A unique gift option for your loved ones and friends.
Product Feature
How difficult is it to install to full set shells for Steam Deck?
Installation can be challenging, so we highly recommend watching our installation video. Get the video on YouTube by searching “eXtremeRate Full Set Shell for Steam Deck”.
Is your clear Atomic Purple shell plastic material?
Yes, it is plastic material.
What should we pay special attention to when installing replacement shells for the Steam Deck?
Please note that the screen needs to be disassembled to install the faceplate.
Don’t over heating and too long when heating the screen during disassembly.
Will there be any gaps between your backplate and the console? Will the trigger buttons get stuck?
No need to worry, our replacement backplates and trigger buttons are exactly like the originals. As long as they are installed correctly, you won’t encounter any of the issues mentioned above.
How do I clean my new console for steam deck after installing these replacement shells?
It is recommended to clean with a wipe with water. Do not spray water or al-cohol directly on the product surface. Do not use any other organic solvents for cleaning.
Find More Accessories
 Replacement Button |  Replacement Button |  Replacement Button |  Replacement Button |  Replacement Button |  Replacement Button | |
| For eXtremeRate Steam Shell | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ | ✔ |
| Color | Clear | Clear Black | White | Black | Chameleon Purple Blue | Chrome Gold |
| — | — | — | — | — | — | |
| — | — | — | — | — | — | |
| — | — | — | — | — | — |
Very impressed with the quality and fit of this shell. Everything is molded exactly the same size and dimensions as the Valve shell originally. It looks great, has a fantastic feel and surface finish, the buttons all fit together perfectly and work as expected, the instructional video is *very* thorough and good.
I’m particularly impressed with the detail of the shell, it includes replacement and color correct pieces for every single button, including the power/volume buttons, trackpad covers, the shoulder buttons, etc. Most of the time I’ve seen console replacement shells they usually only replace the “main” parts they can get away with. This is a super thorough kit!
My only complaints, if any, are that the screws given with the kit are just jumbled together in a single bag and it’s very difficult to tell which ones are supposed to be used where.
That said – and this is absolutely no fault of the replacement shell – this is a *really* intricate process to totally disassemble the Deck. Valve made the thing pretty repair friendly, the entire console can be disassembled with screws, *except* the screen. The screen is adhesion-ed on to the console, removing it is a stressful and frustrating process, and you risk damaging/breaking the screen in a couple ways. There’s also quite a few fragile ribbon cables inside with very small and finicky latches, pay attention to how the latches are flipped up and the cables removed, don’t yank on them too hard!
The instructional video included with the kit is REALLY good, it’s also REALLY long, don’t skip it, don’t try and find some shortcut, spend the time to sit down and follow along.
A few tips from my swap:
– Keep your screws really organized, I have a magnetic screw organizer mat, but some small bowls or piece of cardboard with some tape on it also works great. Don’t mix the screws up!
– When you remove the screen, be VERY careful not to stick the guitar pick/spudger too far under the screen, the instruction video says “don’t do more than 3mm” but doesn’t explain _why_ – the ribbon cable connecting the screen’s panel to it’s controller is very close to one of the side edges, it’s very easy to damage especially when you’re jabbing in there with a metal pick to try and pry the screen loose. Damage that cable and you’ll need a whole new screen!!!
– Replacing the trackpad covers is the only other really difficult part, the trackpad sits on a funky wavy spring along with it’s vibration motor for the haptics feedback, then the cover with the actual “tracking” part is snapped on top, there’s several ribbon cables and sensitive springs around it, so go slow and take your time! Use a hair dryer or heat gun to warm up the top of the trackpad before removing it from the adhesive
– Highly recommend getting a couple nicer spudgers or guitar picks for disassembly, the ones included in the kit are pretty cheap
I was definitely hesitant to undertake this project but I have to admit it looks way better in person than in the preview photos.
This took me about 2 and a half hours. I only missed 2 screws (which I plan on going back in and figuring out where they came from). Highly recommend having a small magnetic screwdriver as the ones included are not. Or at least get a magnetizer.
If you are to take this on PLEASE use their youtube video and go step for step with it. I didn’t but I would recommend using the screws that come with the kit. A good bit of the original scres when reassembling didn’t fully take and were just spinning. It felt like I stripped out the holes but they are still snug. When it comes to removing the screen… BE PATIENT. Slow down, take your time, when in doubt USE MORE HEAT. I broke off a corner of the glass on my screen but didn’t lose any functionality. I opted just to get a replacemnt anyways instead of permanently adhering it back on. Honestly I would highly recommend just getting a screen replacement off the bat and go buck wild. Also it is almost guaranteed that you will damage your original she’ll, especially when trying to remove your screen.
All in all, this shell replacement is amazing, highly recommend for anyone that wants to really change up the look. Especially for anyone that loves the old transparent look of the old game boys. As much as I love DBrand, no skin can beat an outright shell swap like this.
I wanted it to look stock but with a little hint of that early 2000’s retro transparency, and this is exactly as cool as I hoped it’d be. I didn’t replace the trackpad plastics because it’s just adhesive under there anyway so it saves potential damage to the circuitry in those modules.
This makes the SteamDeck look so much nicer! Installation took a few hours but it’s totally worth the time and effort. Take your time with heating up the screen as to not damage it. If I can do it, anyone can!
I’m looking forward to an OLED revision of this shell.
It was not easy… Took around 3 hours for me. Screen detach was terrible procedure. But I did it and it looks and works nice
Good quality, good complication, I can recommend.
It was definitely a process but the instruction video was great. Plastic feels high quality and everything lined up and closed up perfectly. I used the original black buttons for cosmetic reasons but I did change the pads and triggers and they feel good.
Ich dachte erst das dass Produkt nicht meinen Anforderung gerecht wird. Aber ich muss sagen es ist wirklich gut verarbeitet keinerlei strende berstnde oder unsauber gearbeitete kanten.
Was mich aber ein wenig strt sind die Tasten, also das Plastik ist einfach akustisch mir persnlich zu hell und gibt ein strendes Gerusch wieder. Habe da die originalen bernommen bis auf l4/5 r4/5
These looked great in the photos and I’m happy to say they do not dissapoint when you recieve them.
These sheel replacements look and feel great. A fun way to make your steam deck stand out. The plastic feels high quality and the colouring (I order the Chameleon Purple/Blue) looks outstanding. It’s not simply two tones, but actually has a pearlescent quality where the colours appear to shift from Blue to Purple depending on the angle of the light.
Includes several useful tools for making the replacement which is helpful. I would reccomend using plastic guitar pick rather than the metal one include. The metal one should work fine but a plastic one is a bit safer. Everything you need to complete the shell replacement is included in the box.
5.5/5
Couldn’t use original screws in some locations.. just stripped before grabbing.. luckily those posts accepted longer screws with no issue. this shell is slightly lighter then the jsaux… i mix/matched.. and with it on the deck.. you can only tell if you know.
Der Einbau hat wirklich lange gedauert aber selbst ich mir meinen Bauarbeiter Hnden hab es geschafft (ca 40min) ich habe auch gleich die SSD , den Lfter und die Khlpaste getauscht wenn schon mal alles auf ist. Die Anleitung des Herstellers ist wirklich przise und sollte einfach genau nachgemacht werden dann ist das alles kein Hexenwerk. Passt beim Display zum Schluss besonders auf .
Changing my review , absolutely Amazing company one button didn’t fit and they sent me another set of my choosing. I am going to order more and try to convince my freinds to do the same with there cases.
Okay, I was hesitant going into this project because the only other thing I worked on in the past was building my pc a few years ago. What helped was buying iFixit’s essential electronics toolkit. That toolkit had a pair of tweezers that I ended up using a lot, and a really good suction cup for the screen removal. The shell itself comes with two screwdrivers but it’s helpful to have more options. Past reviews say that the shell comes with a metal pick for the screen, but the package I got had plastic picks.
I followed extremerates youtube video super closely and bypassed taking apart the R2 and L2 triggers, because I wanted to use the stock buttons and triggers. For the paddles I had to pry them out of the original backplate.
The screen removal wasn’t extremely difficult, I just suggest that you go suuuuper slow and be patient with it. I inserted the pick on the bottom, left, and top sides of the screen and was able to be careful with the right side when the screen lifted off. I used a hair dryer and it worked perfectly.
The only thing I ran into was stripping one of the tiny screws when removing the skeleton from the front plate. All the screws in the deck were super soft.
Overall, I’m so happy with the result and it wasn’t as hard as I expected! Because I’m a novice and wanted to be careful, I’d say it took me 7 hours total. I used paper and tape to keep track of all the screws I took out so it was really easy putting the console back together. She’s beautiful!!!
All of that being said…. I was impressed with the quality of the shell. I’ve swapped the shell on a few PSP’s, Switch’s, DS’s, ect…. They don’t normally have an OEM fit and finish, meaning some screws don’t line or some some holes are not in the correct spot. This case was pretty darn close to OEM spec though. I had no fit and finish issues, which was very surprising. The plastic also doesn’t seem cheap. I’m 30, and I remember all the clear plastic devices from 2000-2004 had a very brittle feeling plastic, I don’t get that feeling from this shell. The color is also awesome and a true callback to the Gameboy’s of the 90’s.
For the install, I wanted to have a contrast of purple and the OEM black buttons. That means I did not deal the touch pad color swap. I also had a cracked screen going into this. I removed the screen without a problem, but if I were trying to save the screen, it would have been difficult doing so with the included tools. I’m removing one star for the tools included for that process.
Other than the screen removal tools, I have zero complaints. The install went perfectly and I would recommend this shell, but get a better set of screw drivers and some plastic picks if you’re looking to reuse the stock screen, a fresh tube of thermal paste (upgrade the paste while you’re in the device, I used MX-4).
Vous devez dsassembler l’ensemble de l’appareil, je vous conseille de changer la coque si vous avez l’intention de changer la pte thermique ou autre.
Excellente qualit !! La coque est trs solide, trs agrable au toucher, une fois referme, pas le moindre jeu !! Ni en haut ni en bas, pas de bruits “plastique contre plastique” type couic couic comme des coques bas de gamme (type coque de GBA aliexpress).
10/10.
On peut utiliser les vis d’origine ou celles fournies avec le kit. J’ai employ un mlange des 2, RAS.
Le changement est un peu long pour un premier. Mais, parfait.
PAR CONTRE : NE PAS UTILISER LES OUTILS FOURNIS.
Avec le mdiator en mtal vous allez dfoncer votre cran, pareil pour l’outil plastique pour sparer les coques.
J’ai un kit d’outil iFixit, et c’est le mieux.
J’ai utilis leurs mdiators bleus ULTRASOUPLES, et leur ventouse. Avec un cran bien chauff ! J’ai achet une compresse micro-ondable 10$ en pharmacie, type entorses ou autres. 45 sec au micro-ondes, sur l’cran 5 min et hop.
After having a vinyl skin on my deck for a little while, I decided to take the plunge and buy the extremerate shell. I have zero experience with tear downs but I followed the tutorial on YouTube, pausing where necessary, which made the whole process a lot smoother.
The screen removal was the most stubborn element to take out of the original shell but I would strongly advise purchasing the iOpener kit from iFixit. Stick it in the microwave for a minute and then place it on each side for about 5 minutes – I did this whilst watching a 30 minute show on Netflix to pass the time! Using the iFixit suction tool, I was able to prise the screen off without using the pics. Make sure to use isopropyl to safely remove the adhesive left behind. After the screen removal it’s pretty much plain sailing from there.
I chose to keep the original buttons as a nice contrast to the translucent green; I will be putting some black extremerate back paddles on the rear too as I think that would look much slicker. The whole process probably took around 2.5 – 3 hoursif you like tinkering and enjoy projects that test your patience, the time will fly by as it did for me.
I’m really pleased with the end result, it feels nice to hold and the quality is fantastic. The fit is absolutely perfect and for the price of the kit, the value for money is second to none. My main problem was actually choosing the shell colour! I would definitely recommend this if you have the patience for such thingsI love a challenge so this was right up my street!
Couldn’t decide on the best colour to go for but went with the white shell in the end.
Looks good but… if you have not stripped down devices before, this may be a little too complex for you.
The online video instructions are good, not sure why the white costs more than some of the other colours but, for the amount of design, effort and effor that has gone inyo the product , it is good value for money
Installation level: Advanced 9/10
Installation instructions: Great 8.5/10 (could use improvement regarding the screen removal)
Finished look: Fantastic 10/10
Case quality: 10/10
Buttons: 10/10
Do NOT I repeat DO NOT use the metal pick they include in the kit to remove your screen. It will 100 percent damage your screen bezel since it’s painted on under the glass by the manufacturer. Instead get yourself a set of soft plastic picks and an upgraded screen suction cup straight from iFixit.
With a hair dryer or heat gun, on low, heat the edges of the screen for a solid 15 minutes until the unit is decently warm throughout the entire screen. Then use the suction cup to get an edge started, and then slip the plastic pick underneath. No more than 2-3mm and run around the edges and the screen comes right out.
I was able to do this mod in a little under 5 hours and that was with coffee breaks in the kitchen and plenty of pausing to ensure I was following the instructions clearly. Take your time and be patient and it will come out great!
Was quite easy to for their YouTube along the way and I am really happy with the outcome. 100% on the kit apart from the sharp guitar pick
I did cut myself whilst removing the screen so I’d be careful when you get to that part. The kit has everything you need to get you through it for a stylish steam deck and it looks fantastic
The whole process took me just ender 3 hours and looks awesome. However, I do have some gripes.
#1. There needs to be some kind of legend showing how many of each type of screw there is. They come in two baggies all mixed together, and while the pictures in the video tutorial show differences between some of them (flat vs rounded head), actually telling them apart was frustrating. In the end, I used a bunch of the original screws that came out of the stock case as there didn’t seem to be enough of the midsize black ones.
#2 The paddle buttons. The buttons themselves aren’t the issue, their screws are. The lower three screws on each paddle assembly work perfectly fine, but at the top screw the shell is much narrower. This resulted is white stress marks at each one, despite not being tightened right up. (Pictures 3 and 4 on my review.). This is not the end of the world by any means, but I feel these screws should probably be about 1 mm shorter to avoid this.
Overall, I feel the case is fantastic, and maybe it’s wishful thinking, but it does seem more sturdy than the stock shell. I opted to use the original track pads and buttons in lieu of the included transparent ones, but to each their own. As other review have mentioned, use a plastic guitar pick to loosen up the screen when you get to that step. Do NOT use the metal one unless you are very careful about how far under you put it, especially on the right side of the screen where there is a lot less clearance between you and the fragile bits. Just a few improvements to make the process smoother for customers would be appreciated, and you’ve got a killer piece of kit!
Pro:
Materiali e design eccellenti
Kit che sostituisce ogni pezzo
Video guida fatta molto bene
Tantissimi colori e motivi disponibili
Ottimo prezzo
Contro:
Installarla difficilissimo
Le viti non sono ordinate nei sacchetti, sono buttate a caso
Il kit non include tutti gli strumenti necessari
Da sapere
Parto subito col dire che ne sconsiglio l’acquisto a chiunque non abbia una buona esperienza con l’assemblaggio di dispositivi elettronici. Steam Deck una console “accessibile”, ma questo non toglie che sia molto complesso, essendoci molti pezzi e molto piccoli.
eXtremeRate mette a disposizione una guida su YouTube davvero accurata, in cui mostra passo-passo come rimuovere ogni singola vite. Il video dura circa un’ora e venti, ma io credo di averci impiegato almeno otto ore a completare il tutto. E non senza fare danni: nel rimuovere la colla dello schermo, ho lasciato qualche graffio sul retro, che per si vede benissimo dal lato frontale.
Bench l’accuratezza del video, nel kit non sono inclusi tutti gli strumenti necessari. Troviamo due cacciaviti e un opening tool, tuttavia sono necessari anche una pinzetta, uno spudger e, soprattutto, un iOpener per sciogliere l’adesivo dello schermo. Con i soli strumenti del kit, non riuscirete a completare il processo.
Non ho per niente apprezzato il modo in cui le viti sono raggruppate, cio completamente a caso. Ci sono tante viti di forme e lunghezze diverse, che nel video vengono mostrate, ma bisogna sforzarsi a riconoscerle ad occhio perch sono distribuite nei sacchetti in maniera disordinata.
Il risultato finale discretamente buono. Le scocche sono bellissime (ammetto di avere un debole per il design crystal), ma stonano quei graffi che ho fatto. Inoltre, si vedono le bolle sotto i trackpad, causate dall’adesivo messo durante l’assemblaggio (a proposito: mettere le scocche nuove ai trackpad probabilmente la parte pi complessa).
Tirando le somme, non mi pento di aver messo questa scocca ma, forse, non lo rifarei. L’installazione un vero incubo, anche per chi smonta computer di professione, e francamente non lo augurerei neanche al mio peggior nemico. Ma se volete davvero personalizzare Steam Deck e ne siete altamente convinti, allora potrebbe uscirvi un bel lavoro.
I watched an installation video about 6 times… and while I did it.
The shell is lighter than the original… and also smoother.. almost slippery.
I used a heat gun to loosen the glue around the screen and used the guitar pick thing to cut the glue while it was being stretched by the suction cup.
That’s right, the guitar pick thing is actually sharp and you’re supposed to use it to cut the hot glue while it’s being pulled apart.
I had no problems or scratches on the backside of my screen and you won’t either if you take your time.
Take your time and you won’t strip and screws either.
If a screw seems tight, press down firmly with your screwdriver and continue to unscrew and you won’t strip one single screw.. unless you’re using the wrong size.
Anyways, it’s OK and everything, but the screen doesn’t fit very well, considering it took hours to reassemble..
Well, that might be a bit of an overstatement but, as you can see in the video, it doesn’t sit perfectly and that leaves a gap for all kinds of gross germs and stuff
Anyways, cool shell. Almost perfect.
La coque spciale console portable Steam est parfaite, elle protge totalement bien la console. Sa qualit est vraiment bonne et vite vraiment bien d’abmer la console surtout si elle tombait par mgarde
The installation, however, was somewhat arduous, even for someone experienced with taking electronics apart. Take your time and be very careful when you’re disassembling your steam deck, especially with the screen and it’s ribbon cable. The instructional video was okay, but left out some important pieces of information, such as being mindful of the cables with prying the screen off. Use a plastic spudger and not the metal one that comes in the box.
For the track pads, the video failed to mention that the daughterboard is glued to the plastic trackpad housing. In the video, the woman prys it off in one movement, but that’s because the steam deck they’re using was already disassembled before as a demo unit, meaning there was no adhesive or glue when she pryed the daughterboard out. Be patient and use a hair dryer or heat gun to warm up the adhesive for the touchpads.
When placing down the new adhesives, make sure you take care to smooth it out as much as possible to remove the air bubbles, because the bubbles will be glaringly obvious through the clear shell. I found using a wide plastic pry tool helped a lot here, such as the ones from the ifixit toolkit.
One last thing I’ll say is for the final step when applying the sticker shielding to the inside of the back shell piece, be careful to take tou time smoothing out the airbubles here as the plastic is in a chocolate bar pattern and if you use too much force you can easily tear the sticker as your smoothing out the bubbles.
The overall process took much longer than an hour. You may be quicker if you’ve already disassembled your steam deck before.
While I had the heatsini off the APU I elected to replace the thermal paste with Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste just because I already had it apart.
The shell itself looks fantastic – it’s smoother to the touch than the stock Steam Deck and the purple catches the light in a striking way. Fit and finish is easily on par with the stock shell.
The package includes all the screws, adhesives and other parts to refit your deck.
Couple of cautions:
-do not reuse the original screws, some are longer than those bundled
-exercise extreme care with the screen removal. Something like iFixit’s iOpener is a good way to heat the adhesive without damaging other parts and a plastic spudger or guitar pick is less likely to damage the screen than the included metal one
It’s also a personal preference but I think the end result looks better with the original buttons to give some contrast to the translucent purple shell (other than the purple bumpers). With the adhesive attached purple touchpads don’t look much different anyway.
Taking a DIY plunge with my handheld console was an experience in itself. The replacement faceplate and backplate lent a vibrant persona to the device. Although the installation called for a fair bit of know-how, the end result was pleasing. And that clear atomic purple look, simply loved it.
I went with their white, which seemingly doesn’t appear to be offered at the moment after a previous reviewer complained about the white being “soft touch white”. Forget that, this shell is INCREDIBLE; and it’s easy to clean, seriously a single baby wipe cleans the shell with ease.
Installation is indeed quite technical and I would only recommend enduring this process if you’re confident in your ability to follow directions. So long as you can do so, you will be 100% ok; but throughout the process you will most definitely be disassembling critical components within the Steam Deck.
eXtremerates video guide has you remove the heat sync from the APU; but personally I would recommend simply unplugging all connectors, removing all screws from the motherboard and the x2 screws with the fan, and removing the motherboard and fan together as a single unit. This will prevent you from having to re-apply any thermal paste to the APU so long as your gentle in it’s removal. If thermal paste is not applied properly, either too much, or too little, it can cause you some serious headaches or catastrophic hardware failures that will result in an inevitable early grave for your device.
Be incredibly careful when removing the screen. eXtremerate provides only a METAL scraper pick to segregate the screen from the base of the deck; and it will ABSOLUTELY scratch the paint of the screen; as can even be seen in their tutorial video. My suggestion, ask a musician friend for a soft plastic guitar pick or something, and use that instead. Angle the tip slightly downward so to keep the tip of the scraper from even making contact with the bottom of the displays faceplate glass. This will ensure 0 scratches and that you maintain that miny fresh Steam Deck appearance.
I also purchased the blue/purple case for my wife’s steam deck; which is equally as fantastic as the white!
All in all, 5/5 stars. Will continue to buy from eXtremerate so long as their products remain this fantastic!
(Note: I did not utilize all the buttons included with the kit as I wanted to contrast the colors with the original black buttons. The only buttons used were the L4/5 & R4/5 buttons, as they are molded onto the original deck shell, thus, having to utilize the eXtremerate buttons for those. I could have probably used my dremel to break the black buttons free, but felt it was more effort than I wanted to put into it at this time. Maybe later 😉 )
It feels great, looks fantastic and fit together arguably better than the stock shell. Mine creaked when the shell was pressed below the screen and this one didn’t, so clearly done something better than Valve to sort that out!
I did keep the original buttons though as it looks quite cheap going with all purple – but that’s just me.
The kit had everything you need to swap and Extreme Rate have a YouTube video that was really well done and easy to follow, so I’d recommend watching that like I did.
I can’t fault it and whilst this isn’t a reflection on the shell, it’s definitely not for the feint of heart. You take everything apart, including the screen (which I’d never done before) so I wouldnt do it as your first ever shell swap. If you do though, watch their video, take it slow and keep track of which screws go where so you don’t ruin any of the posts with the wrong screws.
My tip: I used several egg pots and scrap paper to say what they were – worked well!
Der Umbau ist jedoch nichts fr schwache Nerven – ich schraube viel, entwerfe selbst Platinen usw. Man darf sich auf ca. 4 Stunden Schrauberei einstellen. Das Steam Deck ist eine wirklich komplexe Konsole (hut ab an die Produktdesigner von Valve!) und man muss verdammt viele kleine Teile ausbauen – man zerlegt die Konsole hier 100% in die Einzelteile, da bleibt nichts mehr beisammen.
Meine Empfehlung: Man sollte neben den gelieferten Materialien noch einen einstellbaren Fhn oder besser eine Heiluft-Ltstation mit Temperaturregelung haben, um das Display und ein paar weitere verklebte Komponenten zu entfernen. Zudem ist etwas Reinigungsalkohol (IPA o..) fr die Klebereste am Display hilfreich. Eine Handvoll Gitarrenplektren machen das entfernen vom Display auch nochmal einfacher als nur das einzelne mitgelieferte Metallblttchen.
Unbedingt beachten: Ihr entfernt den Khler vom SoC des Steam Deck. Ihr solltet auch ein wenig neue Wrmeleitpaste haben um diese neu aufzutragen. Meine war schon arg zerbrselt und konnte nicht wiederverwendet werden, habe aber mein Steam Deck auch schon seit Launch. Mit sehr neuen Steam Decks ist die WLP evtl. noch flssig genug um neu verwendet zu werden.
Ich bin sehr zufrieden. 🙂