ELEGOO Resin 3D Printer, Mars 3 MSLA 3D Printer with 6.66 inches Ultra 4K Monochrome LCD and Ultra-high Printing Accuracy, Print Size 143×89×175mm/5.62×3.5×6.8i
5.Chitubox Pro 1 year experience
A one-year free trial of Chitibubox Pro slicer is included, which is worth 169 USD. From the automatic support algorithm to the upgrade of the model repair tool, Chitubox Pro helps better output the model and allows you to realize the unlimited potential of 3D printing.
Our Commitment ：If you have any questions or are not satisfied or need an use guide, please feel free to let us know，ELEGOO Official Service team will answer your questions within 24 hours. please send us via email or click “Ask the ELEGOO”
Your satisfaction is our goalï¼
The only limitation is your imagination. Print now and go with ELEGOO.
 |  |  |  |  |  | |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Official ELEGOO Support | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ | ✓ |
| Product type | Resin 3D Printer | Resin 3D Printer | Resin 3D Printer | Resin 3D Printer | Resin 3D Printer | Wash and Curing Resin Model |
| LCD | 6.08 inch | 6.08inch | 6.6 inch | 8.9 inch | 9.1 inch | |
| Build volume | 129×80×150mm | 129×80×160mm | 143×89×175mm | 192×120×200mm | 196×122×210mm | |
| Layer thickness | 0.01mm | 0.01-0.2mm | 0.01-0.2mm | 0.01-0.15mm | 0.01-0.15mm | |
| Z Axis Accuracy | 0.00125mm | 0.00125mm | 0.00125mm | 0.00125mm | 0.00125mm | |
| XY Precision | 0.05mm (1620*2560) | 0.05mm (1620*2560) | 0.035mm (4098*2560) | 0.05mm (3840*2400) | 0.048mm（4098*2560） | |
| Printing Speed | 30-50mm/h | 30-50mm/h | 30-50mm/h | 30-40mm/h | 30-70mm/h | |
| LCD Resolution | 2K | 2K | 4K | 4K | 4K |
| Weight: | 7 kg |
| Dimensions: | 28 x 30 x 57 cm; 7 Kilograms |
| Part: | EL-3D-M3 |
| Batteries Required: | No |
| Manufacture: | ELEGOO |
| Dimensions: | 28 x 30 x 57 cm; 7 Kilograms |
| Reference: | EL-3D-M3 |
PRO:
– very fast, i got 3s @ 0.05mm layer height on the Resin XP2 Validation Matrix for Elegoo ABS Like Gray
– easy to level, easier than the Mars and more precise
– if you are used with printing full plates on a 5.5″ dispaly you will be very gratefull for the bump to 6.1″
– no layer lines on the prints that had layer lines on my clasic Mars printers
– INSANE print bed adhesion, be carefull with bottom exposure time, i regreted everytime i went above 25s for 0.05mm layer height
– shaper than my simple Mars printers even though they have the same pixel density
– MAX level written on the vat
– way less smell than with the simple Mars
CONS
– the drops of resin that fall from the front margin of the build plate land on the margin of the vat and splash the hood
– when you lift the hood, the rubber that attatches to itd bottom will get stuck in the legs that hold the vat, a bit annoying when it falls in a vat full o resin
Nobody wants to be in need of technical support but when you print non stop, inevitably something will break. Rest assurred that the Elegoo service team will do everything they can to troubleshoot and solve your problem, in my case they even sent me a new build plate which i broke while i was leveling it.
PRO:
– very fast, i got 3s @ 0.05mm layer height on the Resin XP2 Validation Matrix for Elegoo ABS Like Gray
– easy to level, easier than the Mars and more precise
– if you are used with printing full plates on a 5.5″ dispaly you will be very gratefull for the bump to 6.1″
– no layer lines on the prints that had layer lines on my clasic Mars printers
– INSANE print bed adhesion, be carefull with bottom exposure time, i regreted everytime i went above 25s for 0.05mm layer height
– shaper than my simple Mars printers even though they have the same pixel density
– MAX level written on the vat
– way less smell than with the simple Mars
CONS
– the drops of resin that fall from the front margin of the build plate land on the margin of the vat and splash the hood
– when you lift the hood, the rubber that attatches to itd bottom will get stuck in the legs that hold the vat, a bit annoying when it falls in a vat full o resin
Nobody wants to be in need of technical support but when you print non stop, inevitably something will break. Rest assurred that the Elegoo service team will do everything they can to troubleshoot and solve your problem, in my case they even sent me a new build plate which i broke while i was leveling it.
PRO:
– very fast, i got 3s @ 0.05mm layer height on the Resin XP2 Validation Matrix for Elegoo ABS Like Gray
– easy to level, easier than the Mars and more precise
– if you are used with printing full plates on a 5.5″ dispaly you will be very gratefull for the bump to 6.1″
– no layer lines on the prints that had layer lines on my clasic Mars printers
– INSANE print bed adhesion, be carefull with bottom exposure time, i regreted everytime i went above 25s for 0.05mm layer height
– shaper than my simple Mars printers even though they have the same pixel density
– MAX level written on the vat
– way less smell than with the simple Mars
CONS
– the drops of resin that fall from the front margin of the build plate land on the margin of the vat and splash the hood
– when you lift the hood, the rubber that attatches to itd bottom will get stuck in the legs that hold the vat, a bit annoying when it falls in a vat full o resin
Nobody wants to be in need of technical support but when you print non stop, inevitably something will break. Rest assurred that the Elegoo service team will do everything they can to troubleshoot and solve your problem, in my case they even sent me a new build plate which i broke while i was leveling it.
Overall the Mars Pro is a brilliant user friendly little printer, with some beautiful detail achievable with the right pre-production in place. However just over a month in and with only light use the USB port has failed, one of the fans makes a horrendous grinding sound intermittently and I have had to wait some months to get a replacement from the manufacturer and replace myself which is not something you’d want to do if you aren’t semi comfortable at least with electronics.
Customer services for Elegoo though have been extremely helpful and clearly want to help.
Don’t get me wrong this unit is overall a good sturdy piece of kit but some details do feel like they need an upgrade. The USB port obviously being the main one for my particular unit.
Takes up next to no room.
The noise isn’t horrific.
Seems to be fairly gentle on the electric bill.
User friendly.
Easy to set up.
Very well made and very sturdy.
Cons:
Can be a bugger to clean and maintain.
Removing prints from the build plate really can be a pain.
Other:
(Personally) The FEP film supplied really doesn’t seem to like being used. I took both clear sheets off the film, installed it and got one good print then the rest failed. This may be my fault and perhaps I haven’t figured out where I went wrong yet.
Takes up next to no room.
The noise isn’t horrific.
Seems to be fairly gentle on the electric bill.
User friendly.
Easy to set up.
Very well made and very sturdy.
Cons:
Can be a bugger to clean and maintain.
Removing prints from the build plate really can be a pain.
Other:
(Personally) The FEP film supplied really doesn’t seem to like being used. I took both clear sheets off the film, installed it and got one good print then the rest failed. This may be my fault and perhaps I haven’t figured out where I went wrong yet.
Takes up next to no room.
The noise isn’t horrific.
Seems to be fairly gentle on the electric bill.
User friendly.
Easy to set up.
Very well made and very sturdy.
Cons:
Can be a bugger to clean and maintain.
Removing prints from the build plate really can be a pain.
Other:
(Personally) The FEP film supplied really doesn’t seem to like being used. I took both clear sheets off the film, installed it and got one good print then the rest failed. This may be my fault and perhaps I haven’t figured out where I went wrong yet.
Takes up next to no room.
The noise isn’t horrific.
Seems to be fairly gentle on the electric bill.
User friendly.
Easy to set up.
Very well made and very sturdy.
Cons:
Can be a bugger to clean and maintain.
Removing prints from the build plate really can be a pain.
Other:
(Personally) The FEP film supplied really doesn’t seem to like being used. I took both clear sheets off the film, installed it and got one good print then the rest failed. This may be my fault and perhaps I haven’t figured out where I went wrong yet.
Takes up next to no room.
The noise isn’t horrific.
Seems to be fairly gentle on the electric bill.
User friendly.
Easy to set up.
Very well made and very sturdy.
Cons:
Can be a bugger to clean and maintain.
Removing prints from the build plate really can be a pain.
Other:
(Personally) The FEP film supplied really doesn’t seem to like being used. I took both clear sheets off the film, installed it and got one good print then the rest failed. This may be my fault and perhaps I haven’t figured out where I went wrong yet.
Takes up next to no room.
The noise isn’t horrific.
Seems to be fairly gentle on the electric bill.
User friendly.
Easy to set up.
Very well made and very sturdy.
Cons:
Can be a bugger to clean and maintain.
Removing prints from the build plate really can be a pain.
Other:
(Personally) The FEP film supplied really doesn’t seem to like being used. I took both clear sheets off the film, installed it and got one good print then the rest failed. This may be my fault and perhaps I haven’t figured out where I went wrong yet.
well after using my Machine for a while I decided to do a little review.
I will start of by Saying its a Great machine for the Price ..can be tricky to get used to it as it has a small learning curve,but once you get your first prints they are pretty much Fantastic and wonderfully detailed
So if your prepared to get a little messy ..pouring and cleaning resin , its a Fantastic little Machine.
There is a smell with the machine ..but personally I dont find it a problem as I have a vent nearby
but remember you are playing with resins , ps there are water washable resins and plant based ..so you could play with those but you can get resin cleaning machines as well to make the work even less messy ..
Consumables………
the screen on the build plate is classed as a consumable and burn out after a while, this is on the first color versions of the Machine the New ones Have mono screens and last a lot Longer,but the replacements are not overly expensive and simple to replace ..
there is also another consumable Which is a plastic sheet called a FEP.. its a thin sheet that covers the Vat base this also wears out over time and can be easily damaged so care is needed here ,but again its not an overly expensive part ..
Support…..
I have had a few Dealings with Support and found them to be extremely Helpful and Very professional and they have gone all out to help with Any issues I had, so be prepared to be pleasantly surprised by Great customer Service 🙂 but give them time as its a very Busy time for all at the moment ..
SO OVER ALL ….
If your really wanting to do high detailed small parts ..this is definitely the Machine for you ..
it takes up a very small Space is relatively quiet and looks Great
In fact I Now Own 3 of these printers and they are kept very Busy
So its 5 stars all round from Me
Pros
Good build quality
Easy Levelling
Great Software
Spares available
Cons
No sample resin included so you must purchase some to use
Will be superseded by mono-screen resin printers later in 2020, these will print faster and the failure rate on the lcd’s will be much lower.
Pros
Good build quality
Easy Levelling
Great Software
Spares available
Cons
No sample resin included so you must purchase some to use
Will be superseded by mono-screen resin printers later in 2020, these will print faster and the failure rate on the lcd’s will be much lower.
Had the Elegoo Mars for just over 8 months now and not missed a beat. Details in the print are second to none. It took about half and hour to set up (very easy), and was blown away by my first print (the castle helix thingy that comes on the supplies usb stick). had well over a 100 prints on it, no sign of the LCD screen going yet, but please be aware this is classed as a consumable and will need replacing at some point (plenty of youtube vids on how to do this). have changed the film in the bottom of the resin vat twice, the first time was done to me slicing the film with a metal scrapper and the second time was for exactly the same reason, but very easy to replace, just a little time consuming due to all the screws!
Overall, had a fantastic time with my little printer, not looking at changing it anytime soon.
Had my Mars for a while now, and as a newbie to 3D printing, this unit made it easy.
Remember to buy resin and ipa as well. I now use water washable resin, due to the smell, and other chemicals used to clean the.models. Much easier to remove supports in hot water.
Quality is great, and software easy to use. I have a Mac, and that version seems pretty solid. (Pardon the pun!!)
Downside, which I think applies to most resin printers are the lcd seems to fail for no reason. Mine has cracked twice in 6 months, but these parts are available and not expensive.
The fan is also quite loud and runs continuously, until I found a file on one of the many support groups, which only turns it on when it is printing. Much better, but may replace it at some point.
Overall very pleased
I am a model maker and have used 3D printers for a while, but haven’t used a resin printer before.
If you are used to conventional extruded, filament printers, the surface quality, detail and precision of this machine is amazing. Early days admittedly as I’ve only run two test prints so far, but very impressed.
With elegoo’s own brand grey resin and default settings, I’ve had a 100% success rate so far with no failed prints.
The strength and flexibility of the cured prints is incredible too.
The machine itself is very nicely made, mostly from aluminium with great quality, robust machined parts and a substantial deep red UV case.
If you are put off by the chemicals, cleaning, ultrasonic baths and UV curing, etc – don’t be, the results are well worth the effort.
Very low expectations but really impressed with it,
tbh seen a few like this (LCD resin based printers) recently. I stumbled across this one on you tube & things looked good but yeh always a little sceptical as they get paid to say nice things.
Anyways decided to take a gamble, opening it up everything seemed well packaged.
The build quality I am super impressed with.
The software for the splicing is really impressive, super easy to use & just works.
USB port on the back is annoying so I’d advise an extension cable
I was using a random brand of resin (UV Photocentric) & managed to get a successful print on the second go.
You will need a few other bits for resin printing (UV chamber, isopropanol, a container) this printer is pretty much ready to go. The fans are noisy to sleep in the same room & though my resin isnt smelly you might need to have it in another room anyways. Motor is quiet :).
If your looking for a resin printer I would definitely buy. If your new to resin printing then there will be a learning curve like you have with all of them.
Easy to set up and use, I had my first part in print within an hour. The slicer software accepts a range of common 3D CAD formats I mainly use STL as both Inventor and Shapr3D will do this format. I was expecting the resin to be more unpleasant to work with but it actually only has a faint smell.
The part come out a little soft, I put them in a UV cure oven for an hour, but an hour in the sun works just as well.
Two things to bear in mind however
1) The parts need to be washed in isopropyl alcohol after printing, you need a tank to do this.
2) The resin tank on the unit is a nuisance to clean, particularly if you have multiple resins. I have made a small drawer system to store up to 4 tanks with resin which seems to work well.
All in all, this is the most fun I have had for under 300 quid in ages!
I am writing this after 3 months of purchase. I have had a lot of time to use this and here is my reveiw.
Overall, very good 3d printer which is capable of creating very good 3d prints. I made all teh 3d models seen on the image. For a 3d artist like me, this printer proves to be very useful. A few pointers though –
1 – The default setting is not good. Increase the exposure time for teh bottom layer so it sticks properly to the bed or the model will fall of mid print which will just end up wasting time and ink.
2 – Join FB groups, there are 5 that I have joined, where you have a lot of info, much more that the officail websites.
3 – Try prints of different types and play around with chitubox support system as it is not the best.
I am still learning and can’t wait to try out more challenging prints.
What to say about this machine. First impressions are that the build quality is really good. However, not without problems. One of the bed screws had plastic moulding covering the screw thread preventing the vat from being secured properly. Easy to fix so no great problem. The touch screen is really useful and a nice touch. A minor grumble is that the USB port is on the back of the machine. Again, not a big thing just use USB extension cable.
With regards to ease of printing. You better get used to “the lift of disappointment”. Let me be clear, I am not saying that this is not a good printer, it is, but you have to know what you are doing before you start printing. The provided rook design prints perfectly and lulls you in to a false sense of security. However, do not be fooled!!! Unless you understand how to slice your design for printing you WILL end up with no prints. Given that it can take hours to see if a print is successful, this is frustrating to say the least. Quite clearly the rook has been carefully designed to just work.
Again, let me be clear, the printer does work and it works well once you understand how to use it. Spend some time researching on Google, YouTube, Redit, Elegoo Mars facebook groups, learning from other peoples experiences before you jump into trying to print your own designs. It will save you a lot of frustration.
Oh, one more thing to say. In your trawl of the Internet you will find people recommending that you alter your machine in some ways. For example, sand the build plate. My experience is that I didn’t have to do any printer modifications. They might work, I really don’t know, I just never did any.
Points to pay attention to:
1. It matters that you print in an environment that is not too cold. 20C plus
2. Make sure that the print plate is level
3. Make sure that you expose the resin correctly. More exposure time required for the initial 6 – 12 layers. The resin you use will effect the exposure time
4. You almost certainly will need to put your design on supports to get it to print. Yes I know the rook print does not use supports. No I don’t understand this. Yet!
It’s a good printer and creates really great objects. You just need to put in the time upfront to be successful.
Its worlds apart from a flat packed PLA printer which I have own previously and there’s no comparison in the print quality.
The first print of the elegoo rook failed, but thay was due to human error! When leveling, make sure to use a page of the provided instruction book, that was the sweet spot!
Once I was properly set up I managed to complete a print. The quality was absolutly astounding.
If you’re looking into getting a resin printer grab this model! If it’s not in stock, it’s more than worth the wait.
Its worlds apart from a flat packed PLA printer which I have own previously and there’s no comparison in the print quality.
The first print of the elegoo rook failed, but thay was due to human error! When leveling, make sure to use a page of the provided instruction book, that was the sweet spot!
Once I was properly set up I managed to complete a print. The quality was absolutly astounding.
If you’re looking into getting a resin printer grab this model! If it’s not in stock, it’s more than worth the wait.
Its worlds apart from a flat packed PLA printer which I have own previously and there’s no comparison in the print quality.
The first print of the elegoo rook failed, but thay was due to human error! When leveling, make sure to use a page of the provided instruction book, that was the sweet spot!
Once I was properly set up I managed to complete a print. The quality was absolutly astounding.
If you’re looking into getting a resin printer grab this model! If it’s not in stock, it’s more than worth the wait.
Its worlds apart from a flat packed PLA printer which I have own previously and there’s no comparison in the print quality.
The first print of the elegoo rook failed, but thay was due to human error! When leveling, make sure to use a page of the provided instruction book, that was the sweet spot!
Once I was properly set up I managed to complete a print. The quality was absolutly astounding.
If you’re looking into getting a resin printer grab this model! If it’s not in stock, it’s more than worth the wait.
Its worlds apart from a flat packed PLA printer which I have own previously and there’s no comparison in the print quality.
The first print of the elegoo rook failed, but thay was due to human error! When leveling, make sure to use a page of the provided instruction book, that was the sweet spot!
Once I was properly set up I managed to complete a print. The quality was absolutly astounding.
If you’re looking into getting a resin printer grab this model! If it’s not in stock, it’s more than worth the wait.
Its worlds apart from a flat packed PLA printer which I have own previously and there’s no comparison in the print quality.
The first print of the elegoo rook failed, but thay was due to human error! When leveling, make sure to use a page of the provided instruction book, that was the sweet spot!
Once I was properly set up I managed to complete a print. The quality was absolutly astounding.
If you’re looking into getting a resin printer grab this model! If it’s not in stock, it’s more than worth the wait.
Its worlds apart from a flat packed PLA printer which I have own previously and there’s no comparison in the print quality.
The first print of the elegoo rook failed, but thay was due to human error! When leveling, make sure to use a page of the provided instruction book, that was the sweet spot!
Once I was properly set up I managed to complete a print. The quality was absolutly astounding.
If you’re looking into getting a resin printer grab this model! If it’s not in stock, it’s more than worth the wait.
When I first bought this machine, I assumed the low price meant I would likely have to tinker with it to get it working right. I certainly wasn’t expecting any for of decent customer support; for such a low price they must cut some corners, right? Wrong – my very first print with Elegoo Grey ABS-like resin came out phenomenal – this was in an entirely different league compared to printing miniatures with my other FDM printers. 5 successful prints later and I was loving this machine. I had a question and thought ‘hey, let’s contact Elegoo support’ again, not expecting much. Wrong again, they replied almost instantly, went above and beyond, and were super friendly throughout. If you’ve gotten this far in the review, save yourself some time, and just get it – the cominbation of a stellar machine and great customer support means you can’t really go wrong – especially at this price!
40k player here. This is a great piece of kit. This was my first 3d printer. There is a leaning curve for 3d printing. I had a good few failed prints in the beginning, but once I learned how to orient and support my prints a new world opened up for me. I rarely get a failure now.
The detail this can produce is amazing. For those of you addicted to plastic crack, this has replaced my usual purchasing pattern. I have printed a full army and the quality is excellent and very usable. I also find it very useful for printing different load out options that are scarce in the boxes that you buy. It is great for terrain too.
I had one issue due to my own error where I cracked the screen. I did not re-level between prints and as a result the build plate was pushed too low. The replacement part was cheap, and very easy to change.
Highly recommended.
I have several FDM printers and after much research I decided to jump into the resin printing world with the Mars.
The printer arrived incredibly quickly and it was very well packed. The printer itself is smaller than I thought and fits easily onto a shelf, however the build area is an excellent size.
Construction wise its solid and well built, spare screws are included within the accessories a very welcome addiction.
The print quality is suburb, I use the 3d printing pros support system and I can’t believe how fantastic these prints are from a 230 machine! The printer isn’t very loud at all and the smell from the Elegoo abs like resin I use is not powerful at all. Levelling the printer was incredibly easy thanks the the spring loaded build plate, it’s been printing along merrily for plate after plate with no issues!
I did have an issue with the build plate screw hole stripping, I contacted Elegoo customer service and WOW their customer service is way above and beyond. They asked for a photo of the issue and within hours I had an apology and a replacement build plate was dispatched. With the overall quality of the machine I have no doubt that while I had an issue they are rare and I couldn’t ask for better, faster or nicer customer service.
I know people reading this review will be debating between this or other similarly priced printers. What I would say to everyone reading is. The print quality is amazing! Go for the mars, the price is fantastic and you will be more than happy with the results. Even more importantly however I know you are going to get the best customer service if you need to contact them! They go above and beyond and have gained a customer for life with me.
The FEP is the plastic bottom of the resin tank and it is always below the print layer. I sprayed some PTFE spray on a paper towel and applied it to the FEP. This is a non stick coating that helps every layer to stick a little less to the FEP film and less failed prints. (PTFE is dangerous, so is resin)
If the area of the first layer you print (the one stuck to the build plate) is small and you print a larger area, the larger area will be more likely to stick to the FEP film and detach from the build plate. The solution is to add supports.
Once I kept these two things in mind everything was easier and I haven’t had a single failed print.
WARNING : NEVER press the home button on the lcd if the build plate is not loose. The build plate moves to hit a switch so if it can’t move you’ll probably break something.
I have not had to level the print plate since setup.
I hope Chitubox keeps improving with more fill types maybe. It’s a very easy to use program with everything obvious and settings preloaded, and not having too many features or buttons to learn about is good too.
The FEP is the plastic bottom of the resin tank and it is always below the print layer. I sprayed some PTFE spray on a paper towel and applied it to the FEP. This is a non stick coating that helps every layer to stick a little less to the FEP film and less failed prints. (PTFE is dangerous, so is resin)
If the area of the first layer you print (the one stuck to the build plate) is small and you print a larger area, the larger area will be more likely to stick to the FEP film and detach from the build plate. The solution is to add supports.
Once I kept these two things in mind everything was easier and I haven’t had a single failed print.
WARNING : NEVER press the home button on the lcd if the build plate is not loose. The build plate moves to hit a switch so if it can’t move you’ll probably break something.
I have not had to level the print plate since setup.
I hope Chitubox keeps improving with more fill types maybe. It’s a very easy to use program with everything obvious and settings preloaded, and not having too many features or buttons to learn about is good too.
The FEP is the plastic bottom of the resin tank and it is always below the print layer. I sprayed some PTFE spray on a paper towel and applied it to the FEP. This is a non stick coating that helps every layer to stick a little less to the FEP film and less failed prints. (PTFE is dangerous, so is resin)
If the area of the first layer you print (the one stuck to the build plate) is small and you print a larger area, the larger area will be more likely to stick to the FEP film and detach from the build plate. The solution is to add supports.
Once I kept these two things in mind everything was easier and I haven’t had a single failed print.
WARNING : NEVER press the home button on the lcd if the build plate is not loose. The build plate moves to hit a switch so if it can’t move you’ll probably break something.
I have not had to level the print plate since setup.
I hope Chitubox keeps improving with more fill types maybe. It’s a very easy to use program with everything obvious and settings preloaded, and not having too many features or buttons to learn about is good too.
The FEP is the plastic bottom of the resin tank and it is always below the print layer. I sprayed some PTFE spray on a paper towel and applied it to the FEP. This is a non stick coating that helps every layer to stick a little less to the FEP film and less failed prints. (PTFE is dangerous, so is resin)
If the area of the first layer you print (the one stuck to the build plate) is small and you print a larger area, the larger area will be more likely to stick to the FEP film and detach from the build plate. The solution is to add supports.
Once I kept these two things in mind everything was easier and I haven’t had a single failed print.
WARNING : NEVER press the home button on the lcd if the build plate is not loose. The build plate moves to hit a switch so if it can’t move you’ll probably break something.
I have not had to level the print plate since setup.
I hope Chitubox keeps improving with more fill types maybe. It’s a very easy to use program with everything obvious and settings preloaded, and not having too many features or buttons to learn about is good too.
The FEP is the plastic bottom of the resin tank and it is always below the print layer. I sprayed some PTFE spray on a paper towel and applied it to the FEP. This is a non stick coating that helps every layer to stick a little less to the FEP film and less failed prints. (PTFE is dangerous, so is resin)
If the area of the first layer you print (the one stuck to the build plate) is small and you print a larger area, the larger area will be more likely to stick to the FEP film and detach from the build plate. The solution is to add supports.
Once I kept these two things in mind everything was easier and I haven’t had a single failed print.
WARNING : NEVER press the home button on the lcd if the build plate is not loose. The build plate moves to hit a switch so if it can’t move you’ll probably break something.
I have not had to level the print plate since setup.
I hope Chitubox keeps improving with more fill types maybe. It’s a very easy to use program with everything obvious and settings preloaded, and not having too many features or buttons to learn about is good too.
The FEP is the plastic bottom of the resin tank and it is always below the print layer. I sprayed some PTFE spray on a paper towel and applied it to the FEP. This is a non stick coating that helps every layer to stick a little less to the FEP film and less failed prints. (PTFE is dangerous, so is resin)
If the area of the first layer you print (the one stuck to the build plate) is small and you print a larger area, the larger area will be more likely to stick to the FEP film and detach from the build plate. The solution is to add supports.
Once I kept these two things in mind everything was easier and I haven’t had a single failed print.
WARNING : NEVER press the home button on the lcd if the build plate is not loose. The build plate moves to hit a switch so if it can’t move you’ll probably break something.
I have not had to level the print plate since setup.
I hope Chitubox keeps improving with more fill types maybe. It’s a very easy to use program with everything obvious and settings preloaded, and not having too many features or buttons to learn about is good too.
The FEP is the plastic bottom of the resin tank and it is always below the print layer. I sprayed some PTFE spray on a paper towel and applied it to the FEP. This is a non stick coating that helps every layer to stick a little less to the FEP film and less failed prints. (PTFE is dangerous, so is resin)
If the area of the first layer you print (the one stuck to the build plate) is small and you print a larger area, the larger area will be more likely to stick to the FEP film and detach from the build plate. The solution is to add supports.
Once I kept these two things in mind everything was easier and I haven’t had a single failed print.
WARNING : NEVER press the home button on the lcd if the build plate is not loose. The build plate moves to hit a switch so if it can’t move you’ll probably break something.
I have not had to level the print plate since setup.
I hope Chitubox keeps improving with more fill types maybe. It’s a very easy to use program with everything obvious and settings preloaded, and not having too many features or buttons to learn about is good too.
This is my first adventure into the world of 3d printing and I cannot recommend this product enough.
Easy to use, the test took came out perfectly on the first try.
A few bits of advice:
* Make sure you have a good, clean area for post processing, it can get messy and carpets don’t appreciate resin.
* whatever you do, don’t just try to clean the vat with soapy water. It will not work and you will smudge the fep film.
* check online for good settings on Chitubox, they are easy to find and can save you a headache when getting into more elaborate prints.
* If your prints are not sticking to the build plate, clean it and re-level, this worked a charm for me.
All in all, this is a fantastic sla printer and is ideal for beginners that want a high fidelity machine
Bar resin for printing and alcohol for cleaning the prints this comes with everything in the box, even rubber gloves, masks, filters and a USB flash drive with very useful software in it. It’s very well made and packed with spare screws etc, someone has really put a lot of thought into making this and making it right. The software is actually better downloaded as you get the newest version but everything is so very, very simple to set up and get going with …
… there’s some excellent Q&As below if you have any queries but seriously look how many folks are recommending this and offering tips and tricks. That’s a testament in itself.
Here’s the bottom line, in over 50 years of making miniature models I have never found any tool or machine that has been so useful as this straight out of the box. One tip I would offer is that when playing with the software you set the initial exposure time to 80 ms instead of the default 60ms (this will make sense when you see the software and read the instructions … instructions that by the way are very simple, clear, accurate and useful). This will ensure a better adhesion of your model to the build plate … but then again as I’m using mine in a cold garage if you’re using yours in a heated room 60 ms may be fine for you … that though was the only tinkering I had to do to get great results.
Detail … this is a resin printer and going down to a 0.05mm resolution is child’s play … aligning the 3d model for printing is easily done using the included software, there is almost no learning curve, the same software will even hollow out your models for you to save on resin.
Optional additional items you may wish to get in due course: More gloves, more paper filters, UV lamp, a couple of screw top jars (one for alcohol and one for water) for cleaning your models, lots of tissue paper (blue examination couch paper is best) and that’s about it. Having said that though, you don’t need any of this to get up and going.
So I had been a FDM printer for a year or so and was getting good results, especially on buildings; however it was proving hard to get good results on printing 28mm miniatures.
This came along – i read the reviews – watched all the youtubes – and after a friend got one, i just had to have one and I havent looked back since. It is trult astounding the level of detail you can get. Sure it isn’t ideal for buildings, it CAN smell (I havent noticed it yet) and it does need the use of chemicals.. the resin can cause skin problems so you will need gloves, but that is a small price to pay for such a great piece of kit.
If you are thinking of getting a resin printer then you cannot go far wrong with this as an introductory printer at a great price.
My first print off the Elegoo Mars failed and my heart sank, it was a little blob of resin sitting on the FEP sheet. But I quickly realised was my fault as I hadn’t levelled the bed correctly. In next to no time my Mars was churning out impressive print after impressive print. The fidelity and detail I can get from this printer still amazes me.
Like most people new to resin printing I was unsure whether to go for the tried and trusted Photon or to go for the Mars. I’ve used the Photon before round a mates so knew what it could do, but for me the Mars felt like a better product at a cheaper price, so I took the risk and I’m so glad I did, I’ve never looked back. For me it’s a hands down a better solution; bed levelling is way easier, the removable lid provides great access, the large touchscreen is great compared to the photon, the more powerful UV means quicker prints and the Elegoo resin is the best I’ve used.
Elegoo really knocked the market for six with this printer. It truly is the best printer in its class and they came in at a pricepont that is great for the customer, something their competitors are still trying to recover from!
Would I recommend it? I can’t stop recommending it to anyone that will listen!
I’m so impressed I’m saving up to buy another one!
CONS: Small build volume (compared to your regular FDM printer)
: Prepping and post processing a bit more messy / time consuming
: Any failed prints ( only had one so far, which was down to user error ) will only be noticeable when the
Build plate is clear of the Vat which is approx. 1 hr into the print
: Consumables more expensive
PROS: Works straight out of the box, the only assembly needed is to fit and level the build plate which takes a couple
of minutes
: Print quality and detail far better then on any FDM printer
: High dimensional accuracy
: Printing times can be comparably faster than using a FDM, especially if the print has a large cross-sectional area
: Post Processing of the cured part is far easier ( resin can be easily sanded, drilled and tapped
If you want to print high quality, highly detailed or complex parts or figures that fit within the build volume then I can fully recommend you buy one.
My only wish is that Elegoo made this unit with twice the cross sectional build area, even at twice the price I would buy one without a second thought.
CONS: Small build volume (compared to your regular FDM printer)
: Prepping and post processing a bit more messy / time consuming
: Any failed prints ( only had one so far, which was down to user error ) will only be noticeable when the
Build plate is clear of the Vat which is approx. 1 hr into the print
: Consumables more expensive
PROS: Works straight out of the box, the only assembly needed is to fit and level the build plate which takes a couple
of minutes
: Print quality and detail far better then on any FDM printer
: High dimensional accuracy
: Printing times can be comparably faster than using a FDM, especially if the print has a large cross-sectional area
: Post Processing of the cured part is far easier ( resin can be easily sanded, drilled and tapped
If you want to print high quality, highly detailed or complex parts or figures that fit within the build volume then I can fully recommend you buy one.
My only wish is that Elegoo made this unit with twice the cross sectional build area, even at twice the price I would buy one without a second thought.
So I was looking for a SLA printer for a couple of years but the prices was way too high.
This printer for the price point is amazing, the detail and quality are very impressive.
I have produced some amazing prints from the Elegoo Mars and I would highly recommend it.
One hint I can recommend what’s worked really well for my prints is to spray Rain X on to the FEP film and dry it off befor putting any resin in the bath, this helps release the cured resin layer from the FEP.
I can also testify that the after market support has been a real pleasure, I managed to spill some resin on to the touch screen causing it not to work. They replyed within 24 hrs and the replacement part is on its way.
A good product back up by good after market suppo
I’ve been running a Formlabs form 1+ for a few years and this strips it in every way, the quality is outstanding, so much clearer, sharper and dimensionally accurate. The resin vats and better quality, the FEP film easier to replace (than the silicone layer on the form 1+), it’s quieter, the display is very useful and helpful and the resins that elegoo sell for the printer are better quality as well.
There is nothing I can complain about the printer, sure the power switch is on the back and the usb is there too, but just run a usb extension to the front and mount with a suitable printed item and it’s pretty much perfect.
The only limitation is the Y axis size, but the X and Z axis are fine, it just means that some models need to be orientated differently. Perhaps Elegoo will be making a bigger one sometime. At which point I will be in line for one of those too.
I am now selling the form 1+ and keeping the Elegoo Mars. After years of the form 1+ that has to say something (well it does, obviously).
For the price, there is nothing out there that comes close, but even compared to the high spec printers out there, this one is still perfect.
Thoroughly recommended.
I’ve been running a Formlabs form 1+ for a few years and this strips it in every way, the quality is outstanding, so much clearer, sharper and dimensionally accurate. The resin vats and better quality, the FEP film easier to replace (than the silicone layer on the form 1+), it’s quieter, the display is very useful and helpful and the resins that elegoo sell for the printer are better quality as well.
There is nothing I can complain about the printer, sure the power switch is on the back and the usb is there too, but just run a usb extension to the front and mount with a suitable printed item and it’s pretty much perfect.
The only limitation is the Y axis size, but the X and Z axis are fine, it just means that some models need to be orientated differently. Perhaps Elegoo will be making a bigger one sometime. At which point I will be in line for one of those too.
I am now selling the form 1+ and keeping the Elegoo Mars. After years of the form 1+ that has to say something (well it does, obviously).
For the price, there is nothing out there that comes close, but even compared to the high spec printers out there, this one is still perfect.
Thoroughly recommended.
I have edited this post from a 1 star to a 5 star and i want to explain why.
We got out first Mars back in july and it worked great until it needed a replacement LCD. The one sent to use by Elegoo was incompatible with the board, a genuine mistake but one that seemed to damage the motherboard as no other replacement LCD would work with it. It took weeks to figure this out which caused us loss of business.
We contacted amazon to get a full replacement printer which they said they couldn’t currently do due to the listing being unavailable. Gutted, i took the refund and started looking for other printers.
A day or so later we were contacted by Leslie and Camille from the Elegoo customer service team. After exchanging brief and very friendly emails, they offered to send us a brand new unit at no additional cost to our business. They are the BEST customer service we’ve ever dealt with in the 3D printing industry and this machine produces AMAZING prints. You’d be stupid not to buy it.
Fantastic quality prints off this little machine, at a ridiculously cheap price! We use a variety of 3d printers at work, and this has definitely overtaken the form 2 for most of our resin prints, at less than 10% of the price!
I’ve had a couple of little issues (anyone familiar with 3d printing should be expecting issues to happen) what I was surprised about was how quickly and proficiently elegoo have responded to questions with helpful tips and advice to overcome whatever hurdle I’ve been at.
Bad side? maybe the software is a bit too hand-holdy for my liking, but I am quite an experienced machinist. And the fan is bloody noisy, that was definitely swapped out for a delta unit when it arrived, however I can’t be mad at a 220 printer for not using a 30 fan!
The attached pic was literally the first print I did with this machine, and it is nigh on perfect!
The only thing was that the printer kept coming into stock and selling out almost immediately, so I had to set a camelcamelcamel alert for when it comes back into stock, which it did – and I jumped at the chance to buy it.
So, I’d investigated the whole ownership aspect of 3D resin printing and preparation is very important. Firstly, you need a space to do the printing that is well ventilated and away from pets, children and food. You also need to buy a few consumables, such as latex/plastic gloves (in bulk!), isopropanol alcohol, above 95% for cleaning your prints, lots of paper cleaning cloths and lots of plastic containers for cleaning your prints in. I just use plastic take-away trays and old ice-cream tubs for this, as they will generally need disposing of after a while, and there’s no point spending money on things you would normally throw away. Oh, and you need to buy resin as this printer does not come with any. I bought the crystal red Elegoo product. It looks fantastic and works very well. You can also benefit from having a UV curing booth or UV torch or something similar in order to cure your items post-print.
The unit is packed really well with any moving parts secured very well for transit. You can also pack your printer back into the box when you’re not using it. Once I unpacked the printer, I was up and running within 30 minutes, printing out my test ‘Rook’ that comes on the supplied USB stick. It took about 3-4 hours to print two rooks and I have to say that the quality is absolutely outstanding, using the crystal red Elegoo resin that I bought with it. I’ve printed a whole bunch of other things since then, and they’ve mostly printed very well. You have to put a bit of thought into printing stuff with supports, and I’ve found that if I print with very thin supports, then the print can often fail, but in general, if you use the medium or thick supports then everything is great.
Would I recommend this product? Absolutely, if you’re into 3D printing then you just cannot go wrong at this price. Yes, it’s much messier than FDM printing. Yes, the running costs are way more expensive. But it’s really a separate application; this is great for high-detail small things, like printing figurines, whilst FDM is more suited to larger things, like enclosures, or costume parts or large brackets – that sort of thing.
The only thing was that the printer kept coming into stock and selling out almost immediately, so I had to set a camelcamelcamel alert for when it comes back into stock, which it did – and I jumped at the chance to buy it.
So, I’d investigated the whole ownership aspect of 3D resin printing and preparation is very important. Firstly, you need a space to do the printing that is well ventilated and away from pets, children and food. You also need to buy a few consumables, such as latex/plastic gloves (in bulk!), isopropanol alcohol, above 95% for cleaning your prints, lots of paper cleaning cloths and lots of plastic containers for cleaning your prints in. I just use plastic take-away trays and old ice-cream tubs for this, as they will generally need disposing of after a while, and there’s no point spending money on things you would normally throw away. Oh, and you need to buy resin as this printer does not come with any. I bought the crystal red Elegoo product. It looks fantastic and works very well. You can also benefit from having a UV curing booth or UV torch or something similar in order to cure your items post-print.
The unit is packed really well with any moving parts secured very well for transit. You can also pack your printer back into the box when you’re not using it. Once I unpacked the printer, I was up and running within 30 minutes, printing out my test ‘Rook’ that comes on the supplied USB stick. It took about 3-4 hours to print two rooks and I have to say that the quality is absolutely outstanding, using the crystal red Elegoo resin that I bought with it. I’ve printed a whole bunch of other things since then, and they’ve mostly printed very well. You have to put a bit of thought into printing stuff with supports, and I’ve found that if I print with very thin supports, then the print can often fail, but in general, if you use the medium or thick supports then everything is great.
Would I recommend this product? Absolutely, if you’re into 3D printing then you just cannot go wrong at this price. Yes, it’s much messier than FDM printing. Yes, the running costs are way more expensive. But it’s really a separate application; this is great for high-detail small things, like printing figurines, whilst FDM is more suited to larger things, like enclosures, or costume parts or large brackets – that sort of thing.
The only thing was that the printer kept coming into stock and selling out almost immediately, so I had to set a camelcamelcamel alert for when it comes back into stock, which it did – and I jumped at the chance to buy it.
So, I’d investigated the whole ownership aspect of 3D resin printing and preparation is very important. Firstly, you need a space to do the printing that is well ventilated and away from pets, children and food. You also need to buy a few consumables, such as latex/plastic gloves (in bulk!), isopropanol alcohol, above 95% for cleaning your prints, lots of paper cleaning cloths and lots of plastic containers for cleaning your prints in. I just use plastic take-away trays and old ice-cream tubs for this, as they will generally need disposing of after a while, and there’s no point spending money on things you would normally throw away. Oh, and you need to buy resin as this printer does not come with any. I bought the crystal red Elegoo product. It looks fantastic and works very well. You can also benefit from having a UV curing booth or UV torch or something similar in order to cure your items post-print.
The unit is packed really well with any moving parts secured very well for transit. You can also pack your printer back into the box when you’re not using it. Once I unpacked the printer, I was up and running within 30 minutes, printing out my test ‘Rook’ that comes on the supplied USB stick. It took about 3-4 hours to print two rooks and I have to say that the quality is absolutely outstanding, using the crystal red Elegoo resin that I bought with it. I’ve printed a whole bunch of other things since then, and they’ve mostly printed very well. You have to put a bit of thought into printing stuff with supports, and I’ve found that if I print with very thin supports, then the print can often fail, but in general, if you use the medium or thick supports then everything is great.
Would I recommend this product? Absolutely, if you’re into 3D printing then you just cannot go wrong at this price. Yes, it’s much messier than FDM printing. Yes, the running costs are way more expensive. But it’s really a separate application; this is great for high-detail small things, like printing figurines, whilst FDM is more suited to larger things, like enclosures, or costume parts or large brackets – that sort of thing.
The only thing was that the printer kept coming into stock and selling out almost immediately, so I had to set a camelcamelcamel alert for when it comes back into stock, which it did – and I jumped at the chance to buy it.
So, I’d investigated the whole ownership aspect of 3D resin printing and preparation is very important. Firstly, you need a space to do the printing that is well ventilated and away from pets, children and food. You also need to buy a few consumables, such as latex/plastic gloves (in bulk!), isopropanol alcohol, above 95% for cleaning your prints, lots of paper cleaning cloths and lots of plastic containers for cleaning your prints in. I just use plastic take-away trays and old ice-cream tubs for this, as they will generally need disposing of after a while, and there’s no point spending money on things you would normally throw away. Oh, and you need to buy resin as this printer does not come with any. I bought the crystal red Elegoo product. It looks fantastic and works very well. You can also benefit from having a UV curing booth or UV torch or something similar in order to cure your items post-print.
The unit is packed really well with any moving parts secured very well for transit. You can also pack your printer back into the box when you’re not using it. Once I unpacked the printer, I was up and running within 30 minutes, printing out my test ‘Rook’ that comes on the supplied USB stick. It took about 3-4 hours to print two rooks and I have to say that the quality is absolutely outstanding, using the crystal red Elegoo resin that I bought with it. I’ve printed a whole bunch of other things since then, and they’ve mostly printed very well. You have to put a bit of thought into printing stuff with supports, and I’ve found that if I print with very thin supports, then the print can often fail, but in general, if you use the medium or thick supports then everything is great.
Would I recommend this product? Absolutely, if you’re into 3D printing then you just cannot go wrong at this price. Yes, it’s much messier than FDM printing. Yes, the running costs are way more expensive. But it’s really a separate application; this is great for high-detail small things, like printing figurines, whilst FDM is more suited to larger things, like enclosures, or costume parts or large brackets – that sort of thing.
The only thing was that the printer kept coming into stock and selling out almost immediately, so I had to set a camelcamelcamel alert for when it comes back into stock, which it did – and I jumped at the chance to buy it.
So, I’d investigated the whole ownership aspect of 3D resin printing and preparation is very important. Firstly, you need a space to do the printing that is well ventilated and away from pets, children and food. You also need to buy a few consumables, such as latex/plastic gloves (in bulk!), isopropanol alcohol, above 95% for cleaning your prints, lots of paper cleaning cloths and lots of plastic containers for cleaning your prints in. I just use plastic take-away trays and old ice-cream tubs for this, as they will generally need disposing of after a while, and there’s no point spending money on things you would normally throw away. Oh, and you need to buy resin as this printer does not come with any. I bought the crystal red Elegoo product. It looks fantastic and works very well. You can also benefit from having a UV curing booth or UV torch or something similar in order to cure your items post-print.
The unit is packed really well with any moving parts secured very well for transit. You can also pack your printer back into the box when you’re not using it. Once I unpacked the printer, I was up and running within 30 minutes, printing out my test ‘Rook’ that comes on the supplied USB stick. It took about 3-4 hours to print two rooks and I have to say that the quality is absolutely outstanding, using the crystal red Elegoo resin that I bought with it. I’ve printed a whole bunch of other things since then, and they’ve mostly printed very well. You have to put a bit of thought into printing stuff with supports, and I’ve found that if I print with very thin supports, then the print can often fail, but in general, if you use the medium or thick supports then everything is great.
Would I recommend this product? Absolutely, if you’re into 3D printing then you just cannot go wrong at this price. Yes, it’s much messier than FDM printing. Yes, the running costs are way more expensive. But it’s really a separate application; this is great for high-detail small things, like printing figurines, whilst FDM is more suited to larger things, like enclosures, or costume parts or large brackets – that sort of thing.
The only thing was that the printer kept coming into stock and selling out almost immediately, so I had to set a camelcamelcamel alert for when it comes back into stock, which it did – and I jumped at the chance to buy it.
So, I’d investigated the whole ownership aspect of 3D resin printing and preparation is very important. Firstly, you need a space to do the printing that is well ventilated and away from pets, children and food. You also need to buy a few consumables, such as latex/plastic gloves (in bulk!), isopropanol alcohol, above 95% for cleaning your prints, lots of paper cleaning cloths and lots of plastic containers for cleaning your prints in. I just use plastic take-away trays and old ice-cream tubs for this, as they will generally need disposing of after a while, and there’s no point spending money on things you would normally throw away. Oh, and you need to buy resin as this printer does not come with any. I bought the crystal red Elegoo product. It looks fantastic and works very well. You can also benefit from having a UV curing booth or UV torch or something similar in order to cure your items post-print.
The unit is packed really well with any moving parts secured very well for transit. You can also pack your printer back into the box when you’re not using it. Once I unpacked the printer, I was up and running within 30 minutes, printing out my test ‘Rook’ that comes on the supplied USB stick. It took about 3-4 hours to print two rooks and I have to say that the quality is absolutely outstanding, using the crystal red Elegoo resin that I bought with it. I’ve printed a whole bunch of other things since then, and they’ve mostly printed very well. You have to put a bit of thought into printing stuff with supports, and I’ve found that if I print with very thin supports, then the print can often fail, but in general, if you use the medium or thick supports then everything is great.
Would I recommend this product? Absolutely, if you’re into 3D printing then you just cannot go wrong at this price. Yes, it’s much messier than FDM printing. Yes, the running costs are way more expensive. But it’s really a separate application; this is great for high-detail small things, like printing figurines, whilst FDM is more suited to larger things, like enclosures, or costume parts or large brackets – that sort of thing.
The only thing was that the printer kept coming into stock and selling out almost immediately, so I had to set a camelcamelcamel alert for when it comes back into stock, which it did – and I jumped at the chance to buy it.
So, I’d investigated the whole ownership aspect of 3D resin printing and preparation is very important. Firstly, you need a space to do the printing that is well ventilated and away from pets, children and food. You also need to buy a few consumables, such as latex/plastic gloves (in bulk!), isopropanol alcohol, above 95% for cleaning your prints, lots of paper cleaning cloths and lots of plastic containers for cleaning your prints in. I just use plastic take-away trays and old ice-cream tubs for this, as they will generally need disposing of after a while, and there’s no point spending money on things you would normally throw away. Oh, and you need to buy resin as this printer does not come with any. I bought the crystal red Elegoo product. It looks fantastic and works very well. You can also benefit from having a UV curing booth or UV torch or something similar in order to cure your items post-print.
The unit is packed really well with any moving parts secured very well for transit. You can also pack your printer back into the box when you’re not using it. Once I unpacked the printer, I was up and running within 30 minutes, printing out my test ‘Rook’ that comes on the supplied USB stick. It took about 3-4 hours to print two rooks and I have to say that the quality is absolutely outstanding, using the crystal red Elegoo resin that I bought with it. I’ve printed a whole bunch of other things since then, and they’ve mostly printed very well. You have to put a bit of thought into printing stuff with supports, and I’ve found that if I print with very thin supports, then the print can often fail, but in general, if you use the medium or thick supports then everything is great.
Would I recommend this product? Absolutely, if you’re into 3D printing then you just cannot go wrong at this price. Yes, it’s much messier than FDM printing. Yes, the running costs are way more expensive. But it’s really a separate application; this is great for high-detail small things, like printing figurines, whilst FDM is more suited to larger things, like enclosures, or costume parts or large brackets – that sort of thing.
The only thing was that the printer kept coming into stock and selling out almost immediately, so I had to set a camelcamelcamel alert for when it comes back into stock, which it did – and I jumped at the chance to buy it.
So, I’d investigated the whole ownership aspect of 3D resin printing and preparation is very important. Firstly, you need a space to do the printing that is well ventilated and away from pets, children and food. You also need to buy a few consumables, such as latex/plastic gloves (in bulk!), isopropanol alcohol, above 95% for cleaning your prints, lots of paper cleaning cloths and lots of plastic containers for cleaning your prints in. I just use plastic take-away trays and old ice-cream tubs for this, as they will generally need disposing of after a while, and there’s no point spending money on things you would normally throw away. Oh, and you need to buy resin as this printer does not come with any. I bought the crystal red Elegoo product. It looks fantastic and works very well. You can also benefit from having a UV curing booth or UV torch or something similar in order to cure your items post-print.
The unit is packed really well with any moving parts secured very well for transit. You can also pack your printer back into the box when you’re not using it. Once I unpacked the printer, I was up and running within 30 minutes, printing out my test ‘Rook’ that comes on the supplied USB stick. It took about 3-4 hours to print two rooks and I have to say that the quality is absolutely outstanding, using the crystal red Elegoo resin that I bought with it. I’ve printed a whole bunch of other things since then, and they’ve mostly printed very well. You have to put a bit of thought into printing stuff with supports, and I’ve found that if I print with very thin supports, then the print can often fail, but in general, if you use the medium or thick supports then everything is great.
Would I recommend this product? Absolutely, if you’re into 3D printing then you just cannot go wrong at this price. Yes, it’s much messier than FDM printing. Yes, the running costs are way more expensive. But it’s really a separate application; this is great for high-detail small things, like printing figurines, whilst FDM is more suited to larger things, like enclosures, or costume parts or large brackets – that sort of thing.
Build quality is solid, you really can’t complain about bang for buck. All of the added extras make a nice complete package.
Ease of use is aided by the slicer software, Chitubox is tailored to the beginner but that said you really don’t need much more.
So far I’ve been using Elegoo resin with no failures. It’s a shame resin is still quite pricey compared to filament and if you need more exotic resin then be prepared to pay big bucks.
As far as I can see the only limitation is the modest build platform compared to a typical FDM printer… But then you generally don’t buy a resin printer for anything other than small, precise prints.
I always cap a review with a whinge because rarely is anything perfect. The Elegoo Mars is no exception. It seems it’s pretty hit and miss, some folk report no issues but the fan on my model was exceedingly loud. I did replace it with a fan from Coolermaster which significantly improved the printing experience. Oh, and the USB port around the back is annoying. Simple problems to fix for your average hobbyist so neither one a deal breaker.
Buy one of you’re lucky enough to find one in stock, you will not regret it.
Build quality is solid, you really can’t complain about bang for buck. All of the added extras make a nice complete package.
Ease of use is aided by the slicer software, Chitubox is tailored to the beginner but that said you really don’t need much more.
So far I’ve been using Elegoo resin with no failures. It’s a shame resin is still quite pricey compared to filament and if you need more exotic resin then be prepared to pay big bucks.
As far as I can see the only limitation is the modest build platform compared to a typical FDM printer… But then you generally don’t buy a resin printer for anything other than small, precise prints.
I always cap a review with a whinge because rarely is anything perfect. The Elegoo Mars is no exception. It seems it’s pretty hit and miss, some folk report no issues but the fan on my model was exceedingly loud. I did replace it with a fan from Coolermaster which significantly improved the printing experience. Oh, and the USB port around the back is annoying. Simple problems to fix for your average hobbyist so neither one a deal breaker.
Buy one of you’re lucky enough to find one in stock, you will not regret it.
Build quality is solid, you really can’t complain about bang for buck. All of the added extras make a nice complete package.
Ease of use is aided by the slicer software, Chitubox is tailored to the beginner but that said you really don’t need much more.
So far I’ve been using Elegoo resin with no failures. It’s a shame resin is still quite pricey compared to filament and if you need more exotic resin then be prepared to pay big bucks.
As far as I can see the only limitation is the modest build platform compared to a typical FDM printer… But then you generally don’t buy a resin printer for anything other than small, precise prints.
I always cap a review with a whinge because rarely is anything perfect. The Elegoo Mars is no exception. It seems it’s pretty hit and miss, some folk report no issues but the fan on my model was exceedingly loud. I did replace it with a fan from Coolermaster which significantly improved the printing experience. Oh, and the USB port around the back is annoying. Simple problems to fix for your average hobbyist so neither one a deal breaker.
Buy one of you’re lucky enough to find one in stock, you will not regret it.
Build quality is solid, you really can’t complain about bang for buck. All of the added extras make a nice complete package.
Ease of use is aided by the slicer software, Chitubox is tailored to the beginner but that said you really don’t need much more.
So far I’ve been using Elegoo resin with no failures. It’s a shame resin is still quite pricey compared to filament and if you need more exotic resin then be prepared to pay big bucks.
As far as I can see the only limitation is the modest build platform compared to a typical FDM printer… But then you generally don’t buy a resin printer for anything other than small, precise prints.
I always cap a review with a whinge because rarely is anything perfect. The Elegoo Mars is no exception. It seems it’s pretty hit and miss, some folk report no issues but the fan on my model was exceedingly loud. I did replace it with a fan from Coolermaster which significantly improved the printing experience. Oh, and the USB port around the back is annoying. Simple problems to fix for your average hobbyist so neither one a deal breaker.
Buy one of you’re lucky enough to find one in stock, you will not regret it.
Build quality is solid, you really can’t complain about bang for buck. All of the added extras make a nice complete package.
Ease of use is aided by the slicer software, Chitubox is tailored to the beginner but that said you really don’t need much more.
So far I’ve been using Elegoo resin with no failures. It’s a shame resin is still quite pricey compared to filament and if you need more exotic resin then be prepared to pay big bucks.
As far as I can see the only limitation is the modest build platform compared to a typical FDM printer… But then you generally don’t buy a resin printer for anything other than small, precise prints.
I always cap a review with a whinge because rarely is anything perfect. The Elegoo Mars is no exception. It seems it’s pretty hit and miss, some folk report no issues but the fan on my model was exceedingly loud. I did replace it with a fan from Coolermaster which significantly improved the printing experience. Oh, and the USB port around the back is annoying. Simple problems to fix for your average hobbyist so neither one a deal breaker.
Buy one of you’re lucky enough to find one in stock, you will not regret it.
Build quality is solid, you really can’t complain about bang for buck. All of the added extras make a nice complete package.
Ease of use is aided by the slicer software, Chitubox is tailored to the beginner but that said you really don’t need much more.
So far I’ve been using Elegoo resin with no failures. It’s a shame resin is still quite pricey compared to filament and if you need more exotic resin then be prepared to pay big bucks.
As far as I can see the only limitation is the modest build platform compared to a typical FDM printer… But then you generally don’t buy a resin printer for anything other than small, precise prints.
I always cap a review with a whinge because rarely is anything perfect. The Elegoo Mars is no exception. It seems it’s pretty hit and miss, some folk report no issues but the fan on my model was exceedingly loud. I did replace it with a fan from Coolermaster which significantly improved the printing experience. Oh, and the USB port around the back is annoying. Simple problems to fix for your average hobbyist so neither one a deal breaker.
Buy one of you’re lucky enough to find one in stock, you will not regret it.
However the trip has not been without its issues. Firstly I’ve found that the orientation of the models on the build plate can make the difference between successful prints and failures. It is possible that sometimes a piece of the model will stick to the film at the bottom of the resin vat causing a failure, so simply put its better to orientate the model so any large flat areas are printed on a diagonal so that they are not printed in a single layer. This reduces the chance of those layers sticking to the vat.
However having said that I’m not sure that all the failures I’ve had, it had been around 25% until I got my head round the model orientation issue. This is due to an updated firmware that was published in the last couple of days to help address issues with the LCD projection which if i understand it correctly could result in ‘shearing’ (whatever that means). All I know is since updating the firmware I’ve not yet had any further failures, but I’m not sure how much of that is due to the firmware and how much to the model orientation. I intend to try a previously sliced and failed model next to see if that now prints correctly without any changes. This will give me the answer as to which was at fault.
You should also be aware that as with all resin printers there is a substantial amount of post-processing of models required, its not just a case of popping the model off the build plate as it is with an FDM printer. Basically the steps are; remove the model, strip any supports, thoroughly rinse the model in alchohol or similar cleaner to remove any excess resin, rinse in water to remove the alchohol, then ‘cure’ the model in UV light (can be sunshine). This has to all be done using rubber gloves and other protection as the resin is an irritant so you don’t want to get it on your skin, in your eyes or anything 🙂
My total score of 4* reflects the firmware issue and one omission from the package, sample resin. Surely it would not have added that much cost to add say 100ml of resin for printer testing to the package?
A last couple of words of advice before I go, when preparing your models for printing in the supplied slicer program make sure where relevant you ‘hollow’ the model and add drain holes into a hidden base area. This will reduce the amount of resin used and prevent issues where you end up with liquid resin inside the final printed model – curiously this is one issue that affects the ‘sample’ files of the chess rook as they do end up with liquid resin inside the model due to being hollow but lacking the drain holes. This file is a good one though to test your printer as it is effectively a torture test which could be compared to the well known ‘3D Benchy’ used on FDM printers 🙂
However the trip has not been without its issues. Firstly I’ve found that the orientation of the models on the build plate can make the difference between successful prints and failures. It is possible that sometimes a piece of the model will stick to the film at the bottom of the resin vat causing a failure, so simply put its better to orientate the model so any large flat areas are printed on a diagonal so that they are not printed in a single layer. This reduces the chance of those layers sticking to the vat.
However having said that I’m not sure that all the failures I’ve had, it had been around 25% until I got my head round the model orientation issue. This is due to an updated firmware that was published in the last couple of days to help address issues with the LCD projection which if i understand it correctly could result in ‘shearing’ (whatever that means). All I know is since updating the firmware I’ve not yet had any further failures, but I’m not sure how much of that is due to the firmware and how much to the model orientation. I intend to try a previously sliced and failed model next to see if that now prints correctly without any changes. This will give me the answer as to which was at fault.
You should also be aware that as with all resin printers there is a substantial amount of post-processing of models required, its not just a case of popping the model off the build plate as it is with an FDM printer. Basically the steps are; remove the model, strip any supports, thoroughly rinse the model in alchohol or similar cleaner to remove any excess resin, rinse in water to remove the alchohol, then ‘cure’ the model in UV light (can be sunshine). This has to all be done using rubber gloves and other protection as the resin is an irritant so you don’t want to get it on your skin, in your eyes or anything 🙂
My total score of 4* reflects the firmware issue and one omission from the package, sample resin. Surely it would not have added that much cost to add say 100ml of resin for printer testing to the package?
A last couple of words of advice before I go, when preparing your models for printing in the supplied slicer program make sure where relevant you ‘hollow’ the model and add drain holes into a hidden base area. This will reduce the amount of resin used and prevent issues where you end up with liquid resin inside the final printed model – curiously this is one issue that affects the ‘sample’ files of the chess rook as they do end up with liquid resin inside the model due to being hollow but lacking the drain holes. This file is a good one though to test your printer as it is effectively a torture test which could be compared to the well known ‘3D Benchy’ used on FDM printers 🙂
However the trip has not been without its issues. Firstly I’ve found that the orientation of the models on the build plate can make the difference between successful prints and failures. It is possible that sometimes a piece of the model will stick to the film at the bottom of the resin vat causing a failure, so simply put its better to orientate the model so any large flat areas are printed on a diagonal so that they are not printed in a single layer. This reduces the chance of those layers sticking to the vat.
However having said that I’m not sure that all the failures I’ve had, it had been around 25% until I got my head round the model orientation issue. This is due to an updated firmware that was published in the last couple of days to help address issues with the LCD projection which if i understand it correctly could result in ‘shearing’ (whatever that means). All I know is since updating the firmware I’ve not yet had any further failures, but I’m not sure how much of that is due to the firmware and how much to the model orientation. I intend to try a previously sliced and failed model next to see if that now prints correctly without any changes. This will give me the answer as to which was at fault.
You should also be aware that as with all resin printers there is a substantial amount of post-processing of models required, its not just a case of popping the model off the build plate as it is with an FDM printer. Basically the steps are; remove the model, strip any supports, thoroughly rinse the model in alchohol or similar cleaner to remove any excess resin, rinse in water to remove the alchohol, then ‘cure’ the model in UV light (can be sunshine). This has to all be done using rubber gloves and other protection as the resin is an irritant so you don’t want to get it on your skin, in your eyes or anything 🙂
My total score of 4* reflects the firmware issue and one omission from the package, sample resin. Surely it would not have added that much cost to add say 100ml of resin for printer testing to the package?
A last couple of words of advice before I go, when preparing your models for printing in the supplied slicer program make sure where relevant you ‘hollow’ the model and add drain holes into a hidden base area. This will reduce the amount of resin used and prevent issues where you end up with liquid resin inside the final printed model – curiously this is one issue that affects the ‘sample’ files of the chess rook as they do end up with liquid resin inside the model due to being hollow but lacking the drain holes. This file is a good one though to test your printer as it is effectively a torture test which could be compared to the well known ‘3D Benchy’ used on FDM printers 🙂
However the trip has not been without its issues. Firstly I’ve found that the orientation of the models on the build plate can make the difference between successful prints and failures. It is possible that sometimes a piece of the model will stick to the film at the bottom of the resin vat causing a failure, so simply put its better to orientate the model so any large flat areas are printed on a diagonal so that they are not printed in a single layer. This reduces the chance of those layers sticking to the vat.
However having said that I’m not sure that all the failures I’ve had, it had been around 25% until I got my head round the model orientation issue. This is due to an updated firmware that was published in the last couple of days to help address issues with the LCD projection which if i understand it correctly could result in ‘shearing’ (whatever that means). All I know is since updating the firmware I’ve not yet had any further failures, but I’m not sure how much of that is due to the firmware and how much to the model orientation. I intend to try a previously sliced and failed model next to see if that now prints correctly without any changes. This will give me the answer as to which was at fault.
You should also be aware that as with all resin printers there is a substantial amount of post-processing of models required, its not just a case of popping the model off the build plate as it is with an FDM printer. Basically the steps are; remove the model, strip any supports, thoroughly rinse the model in alchohol or similar cleaner to remove any excess resin, rinse in water to remove the alchohol, then ‘cure’ the model in UV light (can be sunshine). This has to all be done using rubber gloves and other protection as the resin is an irritant so you don’t want to get it on your skin, in your eyes or anything 🙂
My total score of 4* reflects the firmware issue and one omission from the package, sample resin. Surely it would not have added that much cost to add say 100ml of resin for printer testing to the package?
A last couple of words of advice before I go, when preparing your models for printing in the supplied slicer program make sure where relevant you ‘hollow’ the model and add drain holes into a hidden base area. This will reduce the amount of resin used and prevent issues where you end up with liquid resin inside the final printed model – curiously this is one issue that affects the ‘sample’ files of the chess rook as they do end up with liquid resin inside the model due to being hollow but lacking the drain holes. This file is a good one though to test your printer as it is effectively a torture test which could be compared to the well known ‘3D Benchy’ used on FDM printers 🙂
However the trip has not been without its issues. Firstly I’ve found that the orientation of the models on the build plate can make the difference between successful prints and failures. It is possible that sometimes a piece of the model will stick to the film at the bottom of the resin vat causing a failure, so simply put its better to orientate the model so any large flat areas are printed on a diagonal so that they are not printed in a single layer. This reduces the chance of those layers sticking to the vat.
However having said that I’m not sure that all the failures I’ve had, it had been around 25% until I got my head round the model orientation issue. This is due to an updated firmware that was published in the last couple of days to help address issues with the LCD projection which if i understand it correctly could result in ‘shearing’ (whatever that means). All I know is since updating the firmware I’ve not yet had any further failures, but I’m not sure how much of that is due to the firmware and how much to the model orientation. I intend to try a previously sliced and failed model next to see if that now prints correctly without any changes. This will give me the answer as to which was at fault.
You should also be aware that as with all resin printers there is a substantial amount of post-processing of models required, its not just a case of popping the model off the build plate as it is with an FDM printer. Basically the steps are; remove the model, strip any supports, thoroughly rinse the model in alchohol or similar cleaner to remove any excess resin, rinse in water to remove the alchohol, then ‘cure’ the model in UV light (can be sunshine). This has to all be done using rubber gloves and other protection as the resin is an irritant so you don’t want to get it on your skin, in your eyes or anything 🙂
My total score of 4* reflects the firmware issue and one omission from the package, sample resin. Surely it would not have added that much cost to add say 100ml of resin for printer testing to the package?
A last couple of words of advice before I go, when preparing your models for printing in the supplied slicer program make sure where relevant you ‘hollow’ the model and add drain holes into a hidden base area. This will reduce the amount of resin used and prevent issues where you end up with liquid resin inside the final printed model – curiously this is one issue that affects the ‘sample’ files of the chess rook as they do end up with liquid resin inside the model due to being hollow but lacking the drain holes. This file is a good one though to test your printer as it is effectively a torture test which could be compared to the well known ‘3D Benchy’ used on FDM printers 🙂
However the trip has not been without its issues. Firstly I’ve found that the orientation of the models on the build plate can make the difference between successful prints and failures. It is possible that sometimes a piece of the model will stick to the film at the bottom of the resin vat causing a failure, so simply put its better to orientate the model so any large flat areas are printed on a diagonal so that they are not printed in a single layer. This reduces the chance of those layers sticking to the vat.
However having said that I’m not sure that all the failures I’ve had, it had been around 25% until I got my head round the model orientation issue. This is due to an updated firmware that was published in the last couple of days to help address issues with the LCD projection which if i understand it correctly could result in ‘shearing’ (whatever that means). All I know is since updating the firmware I’ve not yet had any further failures, but I’m not sure how much of that is due to the firmware and how much to the model orientation. I intend to try a previously sliced and failed model next to see if that now prints correctly without any changes. This will give me the answer as to which was at fault.
You should also be aware that as with all resin printers there is a substantial amount of post-processing of models required, its not just a case of popping the model off the build plate as it is with an FDM printer. Basically the steps are; remove the model, strip any supports, thoroughly rinse the model in alchohol or similar cleaner to remove any excess resin, rinse in water to remove the alchohol, then ‘cure’ the model in UV light (can be sunshine). This has to all be done using rubber gloves and other protection as the resin is an irritant so you don’t want to get it on your skin, in your eyes or anything 🙂
My total score of 4* reflects the firmware issue and one omission from the package, sample resin. Surely it would not have added that much cost to add say 100ml of resin for printer testing to the package?
A last couple of words of advice before I go, when preparing your models for printing in the supplied slicer program make sure where relevant you ‘hollow’ the model and add drain holes into a hidden base area. This will reduce the amount of resin used and prevent issues where you end up with liquid resin inside the final printed model – curiously this is one issue that affects the ‘sample’ files of the chess rook as they do end up with liquid resin inside the model due to being hollow but lacking the drain holes. This file is a good one though to test your printer as it is effectively a torture test which could be compared to the well known ‘3D Benchy’ used on FDM printers 🙂
However the trip has not been without its issues. Firstly I’ve found that the orientation of the models on the build plate can make the difference between successful prints and failures. It is possible that sometimes a piece of the model will stick to the film at the bottom of the resin vat causing a failure, so simply put its better to orientate the model so any large flat areas are printed on a diagonal so that they are not printed in a single layer. This reduces the chance of those layers sticking to the vat.
However having said that I’m not sure that all the failures I’ve had, it had been around 25% until I got my head round the model orientation issue. This is due to an updated firmware that was published in the last couple of days to help address issues with the LCD projection which if i understand it correctly could result in ‘shearing’ (whatever that means). All I know is since updating the firmware I’ve not yet had any further failures, but I’m not sure how much of that is due to the firmware and how much to the model orientation. I intend to try a previously sliced and failed model next to see if that now prints correctly without any changes. This will give me the answer as to which was at fault.
You should also be aware that as with all resin printers there is a substantial amount of post-processing of models required, its not just a case of popping the model off the build plate as it is with an FDM printer. Basically the steps are; remove the model, strip any supports, thoroughly rinse the model in alchohol or similar cleaner to remove any excess resin, rinse in water to remove the alchohol, then ‘cure’ the model in UV light (can be sunshine). This has to all be done using rubber gloves and other protection as the resin is an irritant so you don’t want to get it on your skin, in your eyes or anything 🙂
My total score of 4* reflects the firmware issue and one omission from the package, sample resin. Surely it would not have added that much cost to add say 100ml of resin for printer testing to the package?
A last couple of words of advice before I go, when preparing your models for printing in the supplied slicer program make sure where relevant you ‘hollow’ the model and add drain holes into a hidden base area. This will reduce the amount of resin used and prevent issues where you end up with liquid resin inside the final printed model – curiously this is one issue that affects the ‘sample’ files of the chess rook as they do end up with liquid resin inside the model due to being hollow but lacking the drain holes. This file is a good one though to test your printer as it is effectively a torture test which could be compared to the well known ‘3D Benchy’ used on FDM printers 🙂
Got my first Mars printer a few weeks ago, and arround 5 minutes after the first print was off the bed I immediately ordered my second. I have several FDM printers of my own and often work with SLA printers that cost 3,000 + this little well built machine easily produces prints that rival the best I have ever produced.
Simple to set up with two screws you’ll be up and running within 5 minutes, since owning my Mars printers I’m finding any excuse to make smaller detail prints even redesigning and printing some larger objects so that they can slot together in order to take advantage of the superb finish quality these machines offer.
I made sure to join the the social media groups and can tell you that both the group support and and the customer support the Elegoo offer is outstanding, if I could give this printer a higher rating I would looking forward to new larger models in future.
Then I heard about the Elegoo Mars.
I was familiar with Elegoo as I have some Arduino kits and various bits of DIY electronics from them and I am pleased with the quality and also the price, and so I thought I would give the Elegoo Mars a shot.
I had heard good things about it from all over the place. Youtubers, Makers, enthusiasts… How good could it be?
Well after the first print (yes the very first) I was gobsmacked…
I didnt waste my time printing the Test Rook, I didnt see the point, I didnt want one and if I wanted to test the printer I was going to print something I needed and would refine over time.
Needless to say I didnt need to refine it, it worked. (I printed some buttons and rotary knobs for an electronics project)
I had used digital calipers and blender 2.79 to design the bits I wanted and the accuracy is on par with if not better than the calipers I used to design the bits in the first place.
I then printed everything I could.
I needed new headphones as mine had broken at the hinge (Logitech G930) I found a 3d printable (several infact) left and right replacement set and they worked, almost identical to the original bits that broke, headphones fixed!. A friend got a new puppy so I printed a couple of little model puppys for his children and he took one for himself!!??
I wanted to use a small servo motor connected to an AT Mega (Elegoo) that was being fed data from a flight sim about what climb rate I was going, so again with blender I made a KA50 Vertical velocity indicator…dial, needle and housing..brilliant. It then got out of hand. Dragons, stencils for the children to draw infinite numbers of unicorns hangers for their dressing gowns with little rabbits on, I havent had this much fun with a bottle of resin since, well EVER.
Back to the present. I cannot recommend this printer enough. It is relatively easy to use, more so than the pages and pages of settings with some of the other printers I have seen. Chitubox is the GUI of choice and its powerful and simple, also I recommend anyone thinking about buying or about to buy an Elegoo Mars to join the ELEGOO MARS LCD 3D PRINTER OWNERS Facebook group. There are loads of people (over 2000) who can give advice or settings etc and they are all friendly and a great community. (Also theres free stuff and vouchers 😛 ) one more thing, buy resin! Money off in Facebook group at time of writing. (among other things)
Also blender 2.8 is now out and I have used previous versions countless times to make my own 3d models/buttons/switches/ stencils/battery covers/arduino cases/pots/stands etc etc. maybe you want it as well, maybe you dont! Its free btw.
See you in the FB group perhaps.
Then I heard about the Elegoo Mars.
I was familiar with Elegoo as I have some Arduino kits and various bits of DIY electronics from them and I am pleased with the quality and also the price, and so I thought I would give the Elegoo Mars a shot.
I had heard good things about it from all over the place. Youtubers, Makers, enthusiasts… How good could it be?
Well after the first print (yes the very first) I was gobsmacked…
I didnt waste my time printing the Test Rook, I didnt see the point, I didnt want one and if I wanted to test the printer I was going to print something I needed and would refine over time.
Needless to say I didnt need to refine it, it worked. (I printed some buttons and rotary knobs for an electronics project)
I had used digital calipers and blender 2.79 to design the bits I wanted and the accuracy is on par with if not better than the calipers I used to design the bits in the first place.
I then printed everything I could.
I needed new headphones as mine had broken at the hinge (Logitech G930) I found a 3d printable (several infact) left and right replacement set and they worked, almost identical to the original bits that broke, headphones fixed!. A friend got a new puppy so I printed a couple of little model puppys for his children and he took one for himself!!??
I wanted to use a small servo motor connected to an AT Mega (Elegoo) that was being fed data from a flight sim about what climb rate I was going, so again with blender I made a KA50 Vertical velocity indicator…dial, needle and housing..brilliant. It then got out of hand. Dragons, stencils for the children to draw infinite numbers of unicorns hangers for their dressing gowns with little rabbits on, I havent had this much fun with a bottle of resin since, well EVER.
Back to the present. I cannot recommend this printer enough. It is relatively easy to use, more so than the pages and pages of settings with some of the other printers I have seen. Chitubox is the GUI of choice and its powerful and simple, also I recommend anyone thinking about buying or about to buy an Elegoo Mars to join the ELEGOO MARS LCD 3D PRINTER OWNERS Facebook group. There are loads of people (over 2000) who can give advice or settings etc and they are all friendly and a great community. (Also theres free stuff and vouchers 😛 ) one more thing, buy resin! Money off in Facebook group at time of writing. (among other things)
Also blender 2.8 is now out and I have used previous versions countless times to make my own 3d models/buttons/switches/ stencils/battery covers/arduino cases/pots/stands etc etc. maybe you want it as well, maybe you dont! Its free btw.
See you in the FB group perhaps.
Then I heard about the Elegoo Mars.
I was familiar with Elegoo as I have some Arduino kits and various bits of DIY electronics from them and I am pleased with the quality and also the price, and so I thought I would give the Elegoo Mars a shot.
I had heard good things about it from all over the place. Youtubers, Makers, enthusiasts… How good could it be?
Well after the first print (yes the very first) I was gobsmacked…
I didnt waste my time printing the Test Rook, I didnt see the point, I didnt want one and if I wanted to test the printer I was going to print something I needed and would refine over time.
Needless to say I didnt need to refine it, it worked. (I printed some buttons and rotary knobs for an electronics project)
I had used digital calipers and blender 2.79 to design the bits I wanted and the accuracy is on par with if not better than the calipers I used to design the bits in the first place.
I then printed everything I could.
I needed new headphones as mine had broken at the hinge (Logitech G930) I found a 3d printable (several infact) left and right replacement set and they worked, almost identical to the original bits that broke, headphones fixed!. A friend got a new puppy so I printed a couple of little model puppys for his children and he took one for himself!!??
I wanted to use a small servo motor connected to an AT Mega (Elegoo) that was being fed data from a flight sim about what climb rate I was going, so again with blender I made a KA50 Vertical velocity indicator…dial, needle and housing..brilliant. It then got out of hand. Dragons, stencils for the children to draw infinite numbers of unicorns hangers for their dressing gowns with little rabbits on, I havent had this much fun with a bottle of resin since, well EVER.
Back to the present. I cannot recommend this printer enough. It is relatively easy to use, more so than the pages and pages of settings with some of the other printers I have seen. Chitubox is the GUI of choice and its powerful and simple, also I recommend anyone thinking about buying or about to buy an Elegoo Mars to join the ELEGOO MARS LCD 3D PRINTER OWNERS Facebook group. There are loads of people (over 2000) who can give advice or settings etc and they are all friendly and a great community. (Also theres free stuff and vouchers 😛 ) one more thing, buy resin! Money off in Facebook group at time of writing. (among other things)
Also blender 2.8 is now out and I have used previous versions countless times to make my own 3d models/buttons/switches/ stencils/battery covers/arduino cases/pots/stands etc etc. maybe you want it as well, maybe you dont! Its free btw.
See you in the FB group perhaps.
Then I heard about the Elegoo Mars.
I was familiar with Elegoo as I have some Arduino kits and various bits of DIY electronics from them and I am pleased with the quality and also the price, and so I thought I would give the Elegoo Mars a shot.
I had heard good things about it from all over the place. Youtubers, Makers, enthusiasts… How good could it be?
Well after the first print (yes the very first) I was gobsmacked…
I didnt waste my time printing the Test Rook, I didnt see the point, I didnt want one and if I wanted to test the printer I was going to print something I needed and would refine over time.
Needless to say I didnt need to refine it, it worked. (I printed some buttons and rotary knobs for an electronics project)
I had used digital calipers and blender 2.79 to design the bits I wanted and the accuracy is on par with if not better than the calipers I used to design the bits in the first place.
I then printed everything I could.
I needed new headphones as mine had broken at the hinge (Logitech G930) I found a 3d printable (several infact) left and right replacement set and they worked, almost identical to the original bits that broke, headphones fixed!. A friend got a new puppy so I printed a couple of little model puppys for his children and he took one for himself!!??
I wanted to use a small servo motor connected to an AT Mega (Elegoo) that was being fed data from a flight sim about what climb rate I was going, so again with blender I made a KA50 Vertical velocity indicator…dial, needle and housing..brilliant. It then got out of hand. Dragons, stencils for the children to draw infinite numbers of unicorns hangers for their dressing gowns with little rabbits on, I havent had this much fun with a bottle of resin since, well EVER.
Back to the present. I cannot recommend this printer enough. It is relatively easy to use, more so than the pages and pages of settings with some of the other printers I have seen. Chitubox is the GUI of choice and its powerful and simple, also I recommend anyone thinking about buying or about to buy an Elegoo Mars to join the ELEGOO MARS LCD 3D PRINTER OWNERS Facebook group. There are loads of people (over 2000) who can give advice or settings etc and they are all friendly and a great community. (Also theres free stuff and vouchers 😛 ) one more thing, buy resin! Money off in Facebook group at time of writing. (among other things)
Also blender 2.8 is now out and I have used previous versions countless times to make my own 3d models/buttons/switches/ stencils/battery covers/arduino cases/pots/stands etc etc. maybe you want it as well, maybe you dont! Its free btw.
See you in the FB group perhaps.
Then I heard about the Elegoo Mars.
I was familiar with Elegoo as I have some Arduino kits and various bits of DIY electronics from them and I am pleased with the quality and also the price, and so I thought I would give the Elegoo Mars a shot.
I had heard good things about it from all over the place. Youtubers, Makers, enthusiasts… How good could it be?
Well after the first print (yes the very first) I was gobsmacked…
I didnt waste my time printing the Test Rook, I didnt see the point, I didnt want one and if I wanted to test the printer I was going to print something I needed and would refine over time.
Needless to say I didnt need to refine it, it worked. (I printed some buttons and rotary knobs for an electronics project)
I had used digital calipers and blender 2.79 to design the bits I wanted and the accuracy is on par with if not better than the calipers I used to design the bits in the first place.
I then printed everything I could.
I needed new headphones as mine had broken at the hinge (Logitech G930) I found a 3d printable (several infact) left and right replacement set and they worked, almost identical to the original bits that broke, headphones fixed!. A friend got a new puppy so I printed a couple of little model puppys for his children and he took one for himself!!??
I wanted to use a small servo motor connected to an AT Mega (Elegoo) that was being fed data from a flight sim about what climb rate I was going, so again with blender I made a KA50 Vertical velocity indicator…dial, needle and housing..brilliant. It then got out of hand. Dragons, stencils for the children to draw infinite numbers of unicorns hangers for their dressing gowns with little rabbits on, I havent had this much fun with a bottle of resin since, well EVER.
Back to the present. I cannot recommend this printer enough. It is relatively easy to use, more so than the pages and pages of settings with some of the other printers I have seen. Chitubox is the GUI of choice and its powerful and simple, also I recommend anyone thinking about buying or about to buy an Elegoo Mars to join the ELEGOO MARS LCD 3D PRINTER OWNERS Facebook group. There are loads of people (over 2000) who can give advice or settings etc and they are all friendly and a great community. (Also theres free stuff and vouchers 😛 ) one more thing, buy resin! Money off in Facebook group at time of writing. (among other things)
Also blender 2.8 is now out and I have used previous versions countless times to make my own 3d models/buttons/switches/ stencils/battery covers/arduino cases/pots/stands etc etc. maybe you want it as well, maybe you dont! Its free btw.
See you in the FB group perhaps.
Then I heard about the Elegoo Mars.
I was familiar with Elegoo as I have some Arduino kits and various bits of DIY electronics from them and I am pleased with the quality and also the price, and so I thought I would give the Elegoo Mars a shot.
I had heard good things about it from all over the place. Youtubers, Makers, enthusiasts… How good could it be?
Well after the first print (yes the very first) I was gobsmacked…
I didnt waste my time printing the Test Rook, I didnt see the point, I didnt want one and if I wanted to test the printer I was going to print something I needed and would refine over time.
Needless to say I didnt need to refine it, it worked. (I printed some buttons and rotary knobs for an electronics project)
I had used digital calipers and blender 2.79 to design the bits I wanted and the accuracy is on par with if not better than the calipers I used to design the bits in the first place.
I then printed everything I could.
I needed new headphones as mine had broken at the hinge (Logitech G930) I found a 3d printable (several infact) left and right replacement set and they worked, almost identical to the original bits that broke, headphones fixed!. A friend got a new puppy so I printed a couple of little model puppys for his children and he took one for himself!!??
I wanted to use a small servo motor connected to an AT Mega (Elegoo) that was being fed data from a flight sim about what climb rate I was going, so again with blender I made a KA50 Vertical velocity indicator…dial, needle and housing..brilliant. It then got out of hand. Dragons, stencils for the children to draw infinite numbers of unicorns hangers for their dressing gowns with little rabbits on, I havent had this much fun with a bottle of resin since, well EVER.
Back to the present. I cannot recommend this printer enough. It is relatively easy to use, more so than the pages and pages of settings with some of the other printers I have seen. Chitubox is the GUI of choice and its powerful and simple, also I recommend anyone thinking about buying or about to buy an Elegoo Mars to join the ELEGOO MARS LCD 3D PRINTER OWNERS Facebook group. There are loads of people (over 2000) who can give advice or settings etc and they are all friendly and a great community. (Also theres free stuff and vouchers 😛 ) one more thing, buy resin! Money off in Facebook group at time of writing. (among other things)
Also blender 2.8 is now out and I have used previous versions countless times to make my own 3d models/buttons/switches/ stencils/battery covers/arduino cases/pots/stands etc etc. maybe you want it as well, maybe you dont! Its free btw.
See you in the FB group perhaps.
I already own a few FDM printers so the printing results and speed of setup were a pleasant surprise.
I can happily recommend this machine to anyone looking to get into DLP resin printing.
I already own a few FDM printers so the printing results and speed of setup were a pleasant surprise.
I can happily recommend this machine to anyone looking to get into DLP resin printing.
Thats where the Elegoo MARS comes in. I’ve been looking at resin SLA printers for a while an dat this price (220 in the sale), it was too good to pass on.
And what an great printer it appears to be. It has a small footprint compared to both my FDMs and is a lot quieter when running. The red acrylic case also makes it pop.
The touch screen may look small comapred to some, but its responsive, the icons clear and the menu kept simple. It doesnt have too many options in my mind, which is the way it should be.
I’ve only printed a few models so far and had some failures, but as with the FDMs, it takes some practice to get it right but when you do, Boy does it do it well!
The print quality is almost on par with injection molded parts and the Elegoo resin, while it smells, isnt as strong or potent as initially expected.
This printer has a slightly larger print volume than most at this price and comes equipped with decent enough accessories. The only thing missing would be a sample amount of resin (I had sample filament with both FDMs).
I can also say that the Elegoo customer support appears to be fast. MY case had a crack in it, emailed them and the following day they have responded offering to send a replacement. Unexpected for such a low cost item. And i’ve only seen others comenting how good the support is, so this must say something.
Overall a great little printer to have sat on a shelf making the finer, smaller items i need. just need to see how it fairs long term, but its got to be less hassle to maintain than the FDMs.
Thats where the Elegoo MARS comes in. I’ve been looking at resin SLA printers for a while an dat this price (220 in the sale), it was too good to pass on.
And what an great printer it appears to be. It has a small footprint compared to both my FDMs and is a lot quieter when running. The red acrylic case also makes it pop.
The touch screen may look small comapred to some, but its responsive, the icons clear and the menu kept simple. It doesnt have too many options in my mind, which is the way it should be.
I’ve only printed a few models so far and had some failures, but as with the FDMs, it takes some practice to get it right but when you do, Boy does it do it well!
The print quality is almost on par with injection molded parts and the Elegoo resin, while it smells, isnt as strong or potent as initially expected.
This printer has a slightly larger print volume than most at this price and comes equipped with decent enough accessories. The only thing missing would be a sample amount of resin (I had sample filament with both FDMs).
I can also say that the Elegoo customer support appears to be fast. MY case had a crack in it, emailed them and the following day they have responded offering to send a replacement. Unexpected for such a low cost item. And i’ve only seen others comenting how good the support is, so this must say something.
Overall a great little printer to have sat on a shelf making the finer, smaller items i need. just need to see how it fairs long term, but its got to be less hassle to maintain than the FDMs.
Thats where the Elegoo MARS comes in. I’ve been looking at resin SLA printers for a while an dat this price (220 in the sale), it was too good to pass on.
And what an great printer it appears to be. It has a small footprint compared to both my FDMs and is a lot quieter when running. The red acrylic case also makes it pop.
The touch screen may look small comapred to some, but its responsive, the icons clear and the menu kept simple. It doesnt have too many options in my mind, which is the way it should be.
I’ve only printed a few models so far and had some failures, but as with the FDMs, it takes some practice to get it right but when you do, Boy does it do it well!
The print quality is almost on par with injection molded parts and the Elegoo resin, while it smells, isnt as strong or potent as initially expected.
This printer has a slightly larger print volume than most at this price and comes equipped with decent enough accessories. The only thing missing would be a sample amount of resin (I had sample filament with both FDMs).
I can also say that the Elegoo customer support appears to be fast. MY case had a crack in it, emailed them and the following day they have responded offering to send a replacement. Unexpected for such a low cost item. And i’ve only seen others comenting how good the support is, so this must say something.
Overall a great little printer to have sat on a shelf making the finer, smaller items i need. just need to see how it fairs long term, but its got to be less hassle to maintain than the FDMs.
Thats where the Elegoo MARS comes in. I’ve been looking at resin SLA printers for a while an dat this price (220 in the sale), it was too good to pass on.
And what an great printer it appears to be. It has a small footprint compared to both my FDMs and is a lot quieter when running. The red acrylic case also makes it pop.
The touch screen may look small comapred to some, but its responsive, the icons clear and the menu kept simple. It doesnt have too many options in my mind, which is the way it should be.
I’ve only printed a few models so far and had some failures, but as with the FDMs, it takes some practice to get it right but when you do, Boy does it do it well!
The print quality is almost on par with injection molded parts and the Elegoo resin, while it smells, isnt as strong or potent as initially expected.
This printer has a slightly larger print volume than most at this price and comes equipped with decent enough accessories. The only thing missing would be a sample amount of resin (I had sample filament with both FDMs).
I can also say that the Elegoo customer support appears to be fast. MY case had a crack in it, emailed them and the following day they have responded offering to send a replacement. Unexpected for such a low cost item. And i’ve only seen others comenting how good the support is, so this must say something.
Overall a great little printer to have sat on a shelf making the finer, smaller items i need. just need to see how it fairs long term, but its got to be less hassle to maintain than the FDMs.
Thats where the Elegoo MARS comes in. I’ve been looking at resin SLA printers for a while an dat this price (220 in the sale), it was too good to pass on.
And what an great printer it appears to be. It has a small footprint compared to both my FDMs and is a lot quieter when running. The red acrylic case also makes it pop.
The touch screen may look small comapred to some, but its responsive, the icons clear and the menu kept simple. It doesnt have too many options in my mind, which is the way it should be.
I’ve only printed a few models so far and had some failures, but as with the FDMs, it takes some practice to get it right but when you do, Boy does it do it well!
The print quality is almost on par with injection molded parts and the Elegoo resin, while it smells, isnt as strong or potent as initially expected.
This printer has a slightly larger print volume than most at this price and comes equipped with decent enough accessories. The only thing missing would be a sample amount of resin (I had sample filament with both FDMs).
I can also say that the Elegoo customer support appears to be fast. MY case had a crack in it, emailed them and the following day they have responded offering to send a replacement. Unexpected for such a low cost item. And i’ve only seen others comenting how good the support is, so this must say something.
Overall a great little printer to have sat on a shelf making the finer, smaller items i need. just need to see how it fairs long term, but its got to be less hassle to maintain than the FDMs.
Thats where the Elegoo MARS comes in. I’ve been looking at resin SLA printers for a while an dat this price (220 in the sale), it was too good to pass on.
And what an great printer it appears to be. It has a small footprint compared to both my FDMs and is a lot quieter when running. The red acrylic case also makes it pop.
The touch screen may look small comapred to some, but its responsive, the icons clear and the menu kept simple. It doesnt have too many options in my mind, which is the way it should be.
I’ve only printed a few models so far and had some failures, but as with the FDMs, it takes some practice to get it right but when you do, Boy does it do it well!
The print quality is almost on par with injection molded parts and the Elegoo resin, while it smells, isnt as strong or potent as initially expected.
This printer has a slightly larger print volume than most at this price and comes equipped with decent enough accessories. The only thing missing would be a sample amount of resin (I had sample filament with both FDMs).
I can also say that the Elegoo customer support appears to be fast. MY case had a crack in it, emailed them and the following day they have responded offering to send a replacement. Unexpected for such a low cost item. And i’ve only seen others comenting how good the support is, so this must say something.
Overall a great little printer to have sat on a shelf making the finer, smaller items i need. just need to see how it fairs long term, but its got to be less hassle to maintain than the FDMs.
I bought my printer in February and have been using it a couple of times a week since then. I wanted it for printing small jewellery parts and pendants so the high detail was the main draw. So far I’ve been very happy with it and the quality of the pieces it prints are amazing. It was my first 3d printer so I wasn’t sure what to expect but it’s been surprisingly easy.
A couple of basic things tripped me up initially;
1. You have to really tighten the screws on the build plate when you are levelling it otherwise it starts to twist during printing and everything goes skewed.
2. You need to select the MARS profile in ChiTuBox software before you slice your model, again if you don’t everything gets skewed.
Once those were sorted it’s just been a case of sticking the USB stick in the back, pressing start and letting it get on with it. They also have a Facebook user group which is really helpful if you’re new to 3d printing like me and want some advice from other users.
This printer features a new resin Vat, new settings (clean tank ect) it is also quiter when printing, new injection moulded uv cover rather than the perspex type.
Once again well packed, improved tool box, metal scraper, gloves, masks and a hanger for the plate to drip drain.
In 20 mins, levelled and printing and it’s been as good as the old one… 190 bargain..
This printer features a new resin Vat, new settings (clean tank ect) it is also quiter when printing, new injection moulded uv cover rather than the perspex type.
Once again well packed, improved tool box, metal scraper, gloves, masks and a hanger for the plate to drip drain.
In 20 mins, levelled and printing and it’s been as good as the old one… 190 bargain..
This printer features a new resin Vat, new settings (clean tank ect) it is also quiter when printing, new injection moulded uv cover rather than the perspex type.
Once again well packed, improved tool box, metal scraper, gloves, masks and a hanger for the plate to drip drain.
In 20 mins, levelled and printing and it’s been as good as the old one… 190 bargain..
This printer features a new resin Vat, new settings (clean tank ect) it is also quiter when printing, new injection moulded uv cover rather than the perspex type.
Once again well packed, improved tool box, metal scraper, gloves, masks and a hanger for the plate to drip drain.
In 20 mins, levelled and printing and it’s been as good as the old one… 190 bargain..
This printer features a new resin Vat, new settings (clean tank ect) it is also quiter when printing, new injection moulded uv cover rather than the perspex type.
Once again well packed, improved tool box, metal scraper, gloves, masks and a hanger for the plate to drip drain.
In 20 mins, levelled and printing and it’s been as good as the old one… 190 bargain..
This printer features a new resin Vat, new settings (clean tank ect) it is also quiter when printing, new injection moulded uv cover rather than the perspex type.
Once again well packed, improved tool box, metal scraper, gloves, masks and a hanger for the plate to drip drain.
In 20 mins, levelled and printing and it’s been as good as the old one… 190 bargain..
This printer features a new resin Vat, new settings (clean tank ect) it is also quiter when printing, new injection moulded uv cover rather than the perspex type.
Once again well packed, improved tool box, metal scraper, gloves, masks and a hanger for the plate to drip drain.
In 20 mins, levelled and printing and it’s been as good as the old one… 190 bargain..