From messing around with MS ICS (internet connection sharing) from the PC’s motherboard gigiabit LAN to share internet with the onbaord 54g WiFi AP was getting silly. Its an older Win XP thing, and new firewalls are kinda leaving it out, because it’s a pain. Anyway, I did get that to work after a few days of messing about, and I learnt a few things.
I needed a WiFi router!

**This came delivered in retail box, wrapped in clear shrink wrap plastic (manufacturer packaging) with “documents enclosed” clear window and Amazon’s stickers attached. It wasn’t what I was expecting from frustration free packaging. I’m kinda pleased I received a retail box, but at the same time disappointed Amazon spent no effort to conceal the item from the postal service or anyone else. It’s just to let people know, and is no reflection on the product review**

OK, it’s got a UK 3 pin power supply (I read the lower end models may not??).
A short RJ45 CAT5 cable is included.
The antennas can be bent straight out of the back, for vertical mounting. They feel sturdy enough I guess (how often are you gonna move them?).
It can be mounted vertically either way up thanks to the slots on the rear that slip over screw heads.

Setup was really simple. The guide gives simple easy to follow hookup instructions, for “ADSL modem” read “any modem ADSL or cable” – it doesn’t have its own modem in built, you need to use your ISP modem or ADSL modem.
Don’t bother with the mini CD, just open your browser and login to […], and you have access to the different settings that the modem can offer. Click the “quick setup” option, follow the instructions, and choose “dynamic IP” as that is most likely (it says that in the pamphlet). Clone your MAC address, and that’s the wired side done (assuming connecting main PC via Ethernet).
WiFi network setup is really simple too, foolow instructions, use WPA2-PSK, enter an 8 digit multi character password (letters, numbers, and symbols @:& etc), change the network name (SSID) if you like. That’s done.

Security settings were surprisingly straight forward to adjust. I wanted to Hide the name of the network, so people don’t see it when scanning. This is called “disabling SSID broadcast” and there’s a check box next to “broadcast SSID” – easy?
I wanted to stop other devices from using the network (if they did manage to find it) so needed MAC filtering, which blocks all machine access codes (identifying numbers of all devices (network cards, dongles, PCs etc) except for ones on your allow list. Add new, enter the MAC address (you can find it in WiFi stats if its connected to your WiFi network), give it a name, and allow it – done.

So yeah, it’s password encrypted with one of the better encryption methods, the network name is hidden, and it denies access to any machine/device except for the ones I have listed. Of course these things *can* be broken, but only by someone trying really hard and being particularly determined.

I also specified that only my main PC has access to change any router settings, and that is actually always wired to the router – so another good security point.

There’s some parental controls and stuff like that, whereby certain sites can be blocked at certain times from certain users – all seemingly advanced but easy to setup – there’s a pattern here!

Took me about 5mins to bounce through all the settings and have the internet radio playing on a netbook in one room, whilst surfing on the main pc in the bedroom.

In use (1x wired PC + 1x netbook wifi) it’s 2.7watts consumption, that’s a lot lower than that Virgin superhub thing (from what I’ve heard its over 12watts!). Of course you have to add the 6watts or whatever that your modem uses to the total bill from running the network.

There’s no real impact on a 10mbps cable connection, maybe 0.2mbps drop but maybe not. It’s not noticeable.

I’m still having a trouble setting up a Local network (LAN) between the WinXPhome PC and Win7Starter netbook, but thats because the 2 OS’s are network crippled to some extent, and I don’t know quite what I am doing. I did it once using my Motherboard Wifi, but wasn’t sharing internet then. It’s definitely possible, I just need to find the right settings.

In summary, yes very easy to get up and running. Everything is included to pop it in between your existing modem and the PC you were using (connected via Ethernet RJ45). Low power consumption. OK, it’s a bit flimsy feeling, but it’s not something you are gonna be carrying around a lot!

==I always buy from Amazon, not a merchant. Speedy free saver delivery, ordered Friday gone 10pm, arrived Monday==

I purchased this based on a couple of reviews on Amazon from fellow Virgin Superhub owners (thank you for your reviews!) Posting my review so others in similar positions can make the best choice.

I was having issues with internet speed from my Virgin Superhub over wireless. Wireless signal was strong but internet was non-existent most of the time over wireless (wired was fine for the laptop/TV/Xbox, but my mobile & tab needed wireless). Using the Virgin Media forums I changed channels, position of hub, and finally switched from 2.4Ghz to 5Ghz. This improved internet access but only when my phone or tab was literally in view of the hub – in any other room I got no signal – a common fault with 5Ghz apparantly. Also, my girlfriend’s iPhone 3GS didn’t work on 5Ghz, so she was only able to use 3G which wasn’t conveneient or cost effective.

So I went to Amazon based on reviews for TP-Link routers on the Virgin site. I was told all I needed to do was put my Virgin Superhub into modem mode. I try to convince myself that I understand technology, but I only lie to myself….I really thought I was not going to get this right first time but I was very wrong. The TP-Link has such an easy setup and the Virgin advice makes putting the Superhub into modem mode very easy.

Without repeating all the instructions, go to Virgin’s helpdesk and look up Modem Mode. Simply follow their instructions and make sure you wait until the hub’s front light goes purple. Attach all ethernet connections to TP Link router and attach cable between hub and router (I used right hand port on hub, and dedicated port on router). Once they were all switched on, I followed the TP Link instructions and I was ready. Really was that easy. It took less than 10 minutes and then another 5 minutes to change the settings on my electronics as I changed the name and password on the router.

(EDIT: I also manually switched the channel. I checked for unused ones on WiFi Manager app on my android phone – this may not be necessary for everyone, but try it if you are still having problems)

I have had a huge increase in wireless signal distance and strength around the house and even in the garden (about 50 metres from the router and 2 walls in between). I am getting very fast internet connection and data transfer around the house. I highly recommend this router – this is not just value for money, it is exceptional value for money as I now get internet at the speed I am paying for.

If you have any questions about set up and don’t understand the very correct but sometimes baffling advice some intelligent reviewers give, don’t hesitate to ask for a dumbed down version from me.